Dutch Vitpilen 701

[nampus]

The Italian sprocket is dampened and with holes.

Any more info on this? A link to a webshop or a partnumber perhaps?

 

[BISavage]

Here's what mine looks like:



Its Ognibene

Part numbers:
• 15t - 367118R15
• 16t - 367118R16

 

[nampus]

Did about 130km this morning:

So, took it off again, cleaned everything, and put it back on, this time I torqued it to 100Nm.

Let's see if this holds.

 

[Max Kool]

The damping of the front sprocket is to reduce chain noise afaik, and does not not dampen the sprocket movements...

 

[nampus]

The damping of the front sprocket is to reduce chain noise afaik, and does not not dampen the sprocket movements...

Indeed, but it also reduces vibrations.
When I replaced my dampened front sprocket on my 990 with an undampened one, I noticed a significant increase in vibrations in my left foot peg.

 

[Vatte]

100 Nm is 25 % more compared to 80 Nm. I already struggle to hold the 80 Nm with the rear brake.
What about the torque setting for the rear axle nut inside the manuals which require 100 Nm for the sprocket nut?

 

[nampus]

No problems here blocking the rear wheel with the back brake when torqueing to 100Nm.

Just pulled the front sprocket cover again, about 450km since I torqued it to 100Nm, and it's still in place

I'll keep checking it regularly, but I'm pretty confident it'll be fine from now on.

 

[Max Kool]

I need to get me one of those paint pens.

 

[nampus]

I have a milwaukee paint marker:

INKZALL™ Liquid Paint Marker - Geel - 48223721

Bestel je Milwaukee Verfmarker voordelig en gemakkelijk bij Mastertools, dé online specialist in Milwaukee gereedschap en toebehoren. | 48223721 | 045242363377

mastertools.nl

And dykem cross check:

ITWProBrands

www.itwprobrands.com

The stuff on the sprocket nut is dykem cross check.

I find that much nicer to use. The paint in the marker is quite thin, so tends to get runny.
The cross check is a lot thicker.

We use the cross check at work, so I saved one of those that was past its due date from the bin.

 

[nampus]

Washed it tonight, and checked the sprocket nut. Still tight

 

[Tinkmaster Fizz]

Hey Nampus,

Fellow Vit701 rider from the Netherlands here, nice posts, very detailed! I bought a new Vit701 2020 version, been riding it since Feb 2022 (8000km now) I'm trying to learn to do some maintenance myself so I'm very interested in your posts.
Did you ever think of doing small videos on your maintenance jobs?

Cheers,
Tinkmaster Fizz

 

[nampus]

Removed the secondary air system.
Before:

After:
Looks a bit cleaner.

 

[SvePil]

Its a lot of hoses and stuff in there. Sweet to get rid of some of it. I would like to get rid of the crank case vent hose and the valve cover vent hose but worried about how much oil(if none) will spit out. Thinking of some sort of filter cap solution.

Any thoughts on this?

 

[nampus]

Never looked into it, but I can imagine it might get quite dirty with oil mist coming through the filter.

 

[ChainsawDuke]

I ditched everything, including the catch tube in the upper frame rail. Replaced it all with two mini DNA pod filters, directly on the crankcase and rocker cover vents. Been running it for over a year like that and totally clean.

 

[SvePil]

I ditched everything, including the catch tube in the upper frame rail. Replaced it all with two mini DNA pod filters, directly on the crankcase and rocker cover vents. Been running it for over a year like that and totally clean.

Interesting. I will probably go that way. Thanks for info

 

[nampus]

I ditched everything, including the catch tube in the upper frame rail. Replaced it all with two mini DNA pod filters, directly on the crankcase and rocker cover vents. Been running it for over a year like that and totally clean.

Could you post some pics and maybe a a partnumber or link to the filters you used?

 

[ChainsawDuke]

Could you post some pics and maybe a a partnumber or link to the filters you used?

I can't remember part number but think they were about 16mm female filters, I had already done SAS and EVAP deletes so it was just a case of removing all the other plumbing and fitting filters.

 

[nampus]

I was always happy with the braking performance of the Vitpilen, but since owning the Street Triple with its formidable anchors, the Husky front brake felt a little lacking.

This could off course be easily solved with a simple change of pads, but where's the fun in that?

A few weeks ago I found a second hand left Brembo Stylema caliper for a decent price, so I bought it


The banjo mounts at a different angle compared to the stock caliper, so I ordered a custom made Hel brake line to replace the stock line.

Removed the stock caliper:


Versus new caliper:

150grams of unsprung weight saved

Mounted on the bike with the new line:



Because I changed the line, I replaced the brake fluid, so I also changed the rear brake fluid and clutch fluid.

And after that I replaced the clutch switch because the little tab to activate it had broken off a couple of months ago.
You can't get the little metal part separately, so I had to order a complete clutch switch


But at least everything is working as it should again.

It was raining cats and dogs here today, so haven't been out to test the new brakes yet.

 

[NToxx]

Interesting upgrade, I was thinking about it also. The first and the most efficient upgrade costwise was to change brake pads but even if the braking performance is sufficient now I would like more bite, in order to make braking a one or two finger thing.
I have read somewhere that the piston being smaller (34mm vs 30mm, so ~30% smaller surface) it was not recomended if you want to keep the ABS.
I was also pondering if the caliper upgrade would be better than a master cylinder upgrade...
Maybe your feedback will guide me.