toast449
top rider
That is the first thing I do on every bike I get.
801 owners club
- Thread starter yonsson
- Start date
Technical data:
12,8 V maintenance-free LiFePo4-battery
Capacity 6.0 Ah
Recommended charging current - 3.0 amps
Maximum charge current for fast charging - 24 amps
Any recommendations? The original accessory is pretty expensive.
toast449
top rider
I don't know what stuff costs where you are, but Shorai have been very good to me and are very light.
nampus
top rider
I've had a shorai in one of my previous bikes. No issues.
I have a Shido in my Vitpilen 701 for a couple of years now, and no issues with that either.
I have a Shido in my Vitpilen 701 for a couple of years now, and no issues with that either.
Coober now has an equivalent to the powertronics FuelX called the Coober LM ECU. It’s a little expensive but easy to install (4screws to remove the side panel over the motor. It should eliminate stalling issues and give a little more ompf in the lower revs and part throttle gas.
I had the FuelX on my 401 and I noticed a difference so I’ll probably place an order on the Coober if powertronics isn’t close to releasing theirs.
I think this has some potential. Wanted a cheap way to get directions and didn’t want to mount my phone. The screen mirrors the phone. Now I just need a way to connect it to the ignition wire. Or perhaps I’ll just go straight for the battery.
toast449
top rider
Do you have speakers in your helmet? There is a small circular dongle that goes on a handlebar that gives simple directions, don't remember what it is called. Between that and voice guidance from google maps in your ears you should be covered.
Edit: look up Beeline moto.
The connector is ACC2; it's behind the headlight.
Yes, I’ve got a headset in my helmet and I usually use the Husky map app for dash directions + voice guidance in the helmet. It works OK but it takes a long time to preset the app. It also sucks a lot of battery from the phone.
Yes, I know, and one plug behind the seat. I don’t know how to connect though, I’d rather not cut or splice the bikes wire. Trying to find a guide.
I have ordered a usb>usbc adapter but I’m guessing the dash usbc outlet isn’t strong enough for the display.
Took me forever to find a video explaining I just need to put a regular spade connection on the dash wires.
-That’s easy! I even have these laying around. I thought I had to do some serious electrical installation. I have never installed anything on any bike I’ve had so I didn’t know it was that easy.Edit: Done
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That took me about an hour because 1: The wires on the display had the wrong colors so it didn’t work first and 2: It’s seriously tight for all the wires to fit behind the headlamp. Made me crazy to stuff it all in there.
But… Now the display is connected to the ACC2 and turns on/off when I turn the ignition. Would have been an even better position for the display without the extra bar on the handlebar but I really like that style so this is the best solution. Happy with the results.
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There are two different ways to mount it. One is with a lever and that way it’s easy to take off. I did it without the lever, that makes for a very tight fit. I had to use my mini ratchet tool to get in there, a normal hex tool won’t fit.
So basically I have to unscrew it to dismount it. Only takes 20 secs or so but there is no “quick release system”. If somebody decides to order, then use CARVIP35 for discount, that the best discount code.
Out with the “old”, in with the new. Amazon had a sale so I thought “why not”. Going to buy a FuelX as soon as it’s available which should be during this winter.
Also took out all the not frequently used tools in the tool bag and replaced them with the mini tool above (kept the original hex keys) saving over a kg of weight.
Has anybody deep dived into the different between the Coober LM (€429) and the FuelX lite (€200)?
It seems to me they do the exact same thing the exact same way. I know Coober has done a lot of testing but is there any info on one being better than the other?
They are both lambda sensor foolers which make the bike run richer by adjusting the AFR (air/fuel), by sending false signals to the engine by connecting to the lambda sensors to the engine in the closed loop. The closed loop seems to be pretty big on this engine (inserting photo from Coobers testing).
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Hello everyone!
Would any of you gentlemen be able to take a few pictures of whats under the main and passenger seat?
I am wainting to get my hands on a vit 801 and I saw the custom version by KISKA design. I think it looks amazaing but I would like to know is that tail exhaust would even be feasible. My conserns are the heat and how much stuff would you need to relocate to make it work (battery, ecu, wires, relaysand so on).
Anyway I would really appreciate all and any pictures of whats under the seats/in the subframe.
Would any of you gentlemen be able to take a few pictures of whats under the main and passenger seat?
I am wainting to get my hands on a vit 801 and I saw the custom version by KISKA design. I think it looks amazaing but I would like to know is that tail exhaust would even be feasible. My conserns are the heat and how much stuff would you need to relocate to make it work (battery, ecu, wires, relaysand so on).
Anyway I would really appreciate all and any pictures of whats under the seats/in the subframe.