wolfie109
fast rider
For me it is worth being able to remove the headlight and turn off the abs but keep the traction control enabled for the track.
Track Vits?
- Thread starter Ben Dover
- Start date
BISavage
champion rider
+ 40 $ shipping cost to France
Interesting isnt it, USA to EU costs like 50 bucks, and EU to USA costs like 7.99 ...
DWB
expert rider
Did you pull your db-reducer out of the silencer? If so, how much louder was it? My bike is soooo quiet now, I can hear the valves clicking when I ride.My hanger is made by me. In the style of KTM racing hanger
Gotta make it louder and am trying to pull the db-reducer out, but they have messed with it pretty good to keep it in there. I really, really do not want to drill out the pop rivets and pull off the carbon fiber wrap, but I'm stuck. I pulled off the rubber cap and tried to get the soft material out of the 5mm hex head, but couldn't get it out enough to get anything else in there. Tried a screw extractor, but it will not break it free. It appears that they actually tack welded or brazed the screw in there.
How did you get yours out?
Thanks
BISavage
champion rider
BISavage
champion rider
I know I dont drive a big bike like y'all, but when I take out my killer I lose almost 20km/h top speed... just to point out that loud doesnt necessarily mean speed or power...
I ordered it on ebay (topoftheboxproducts).
66 € + 18 € shipping + 22 € tax . I hope that’s all and that it will work!
BISavage
champion rider
Now I am interested, in the video of the hill climb event, did use db killer, or is that the sound without db Killer?
...and do you experience power loss without it?
BISavage
champion rider
Very interesting, that you mention hill climb without.
I know that on my bike, it is opposite as I expect, the top speed is less and low end torque is higher, probably exactly what you want for hill climb.
I know that on my bike, it is opposite as I expect, the top speed is less and low end torque is higher, probably exactly what you want for hill climb.
DWB
expert rider
Thanks for the info - did YOU pull it out, and if so, do you remember the technique?
Yes, I also have the full system, so have the second silencer section - hence, the incredibly quiet sound. The db-killer is not one of the closed off ones, it actually just narrows the passage, so I don't think much change in sound or backpressure, but some.
I have worked with 2WDW and watched their activity, and the db-killer vs power is very bike-dependent. Some, it can make a huge difference in peak power, others not much change at all. It depends on the system and the bike and the tune. If you are losing power with it out, I would consider that your ride may need a tweak of the AFR at high revs'.
I have a date with 2WDW to tune this 701, but I want it without the db-killer, as the bike is just too quiet now. And just looking for the technique of getting it out, if there are any shortcuts.
@FaNaTic?
Yes, I also have the full system, so have the second silencer section - hence, the incredibly quiet sound. The db-killer is not one of the closed off ones, it actually just narrows the passage, so I don't think much change in sound or backpressure, but some.
I have worked with 2WDW and watched their activity, and the db-killer vs power is very bike-dependent. Some, it can make a huge difference in peak power, others not much change at all. It depends on the system and the bike and the tune. If you are losing power with it out, I would consider that your ride may need a tweak of the AFR at high revs'.
I have a date with 2WDW to tune this 701, but I want it without the db-killer, as the bike is just too quiet now. And just looking for the technique of getting it out, if there are any shortcuts.
@FaNaTic?
I forgot it but I remember now that for the dyno, I still had the db killer (I just forgot to put it away) but we found a welded screw.
The guy drilled the screw very cleanly without damaging the thread (I don't know if I would be able to do it myself). Take your best drill bit!
I just had to put on a new screw to put the db killer back later.
The guy drilled the screw very cleanly without damaging the thread (I don't know if I would be able to do it myself). Take your best drill bit!
I just had to put on a new screw to put the db killer back later.
BISavage
champion rider
They make screw extraction kits which are available for like 10 bucks or less, like mine:
It works well for a couple uses, just use the drill ones (Dr#.) to make the right shape for the extractor ones (Ex#.) to bite
It works well for a couple uses, just use the drill ones (Dr#.) to make the right shape for the extractor ones (Ex#.) to bite
DWB
expert rider
@BISavage Yes, I tried the screw extractors, but it wouldn't hold the first time, as the head is actually brazed on inside and requires a great bit of torque to break the welds, which I was unsuccessful at. I have another size on order, and we'll see if that works. I was hoping for some magic solution from FaNaTic.
@FaNaTic Do you recall your dyno HP/torque? Able to post the print out?
Thanks all.
@FaNaTic Do you recall your dyno HP/torque? Able to post the print out?
Thanks all.
I don't think it's the good tool. The screw is not stuck in the thread but by the head.
It's like for a rivet, the aim is to delete the head and the job is done.
The difficulty was to hold the silencer without damaging it on a rag (me) and to drill the head right in the center (the guy). When you reach the welding point, it's OK.
Here is the dyno chart :
It's like for a rivet, the aim is to delete the head and the job is done.
The difficulty was to hold the silencer without damaging it on a rag (me) and to drill the head right in the center (the guy). When you reach the welding point, it's OK.
Here is the dyno chart :
DWB
expert rider
@FaNaTic Thank you, sir.
From what I've seen/read, that semi-flat spot between 3-4 is typical for this exhaust. I saw that Pirate had a different mid-section that did notably better at this RPM but then lost the edge at higher RPMs. They used to sell that mid-section, but not anymore.
Again, thank you for the information. Cheers.
From what I've seen/read, that semi-flat spot between 3-4 is typical for this exhaust. I saw that Pirate had a different mid-section that did notably better at this RPM but then lost the edge at higher RPMs. They used to sell that mid-section, but not anymore.
Again, thank you for the information. Cheers.
I received the headlight dongle. It works: the bike did not catch fire and I no longer have this fucking message "can HLU failure". Thanks to Wolfie109Headlight removal dongle from Woodcraft $70US
i actually emailed Woodcraft back and asked them if they would go for $20US …haha.
This is the fourth dongle on this bike, I hope it’s the last one. Next time I buy a Krämer HKR EVO2.