Fender Eliminator

Maybe I got the wrong year, but the 390 tidy I got from Evotech uses the four bolt pattern that requires the extra mounting block you made for the 1290 kit (or maybe I'm getting confused about what is what at this point.

Anyway, without adding the extra mounting block (which seems like a pain in the ass to fit perfectly) I'm going to just wind up drilling and tapping new holes in the recess to mount the plate - as is the base of the 390 covers up parts of the rear two stock mounting holes.
 
Here again the link to the Evotech Duke 390 Tail Tidy (2017 - 2023) I ordered; and that works fine with the new baseplate without an additional mounting block, as the mounting holes to fit the plate to the frame are not coverd.

The one with the four bolt pattern is the 1290 Super Duke R Tail Tidy (2020+)
 
That was what I meant to order but I got it off Amazon and searching for that took me to the 2024+ and I just didn't verify.

So now I have a little more fabrication work to do, but it will be done today.
 
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With some modification the 390 (2024+) will also work; possibly even without an additional mounting block.

390_2024+.jpg
 
I got it done today without a mounting block but I did it by drilling and tapping new holes in the subframe 8mm to the outside of each stock hole. It is a nice looking kit when it is all done. Powdercoated the base after this test fit.

PXL_20250419_200350319.jpg
 
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If you will correct the mounting angle, it will fit even better; also the indicators will be placed higher and will work better with the stock (high) exhaust; nearly as good as with the 1290 tail tidy.

250323_07_390_24+.jpg

250323_08_390_24+.jpg
 
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Hi,
I bought the Bagoros Premium and cut the baseplate at work using Tom's drawing. I had to weld to screws from the back of the baseplate to make it work.
I also powdercoated all parts in black textured powder since I didnt like the Bagoros print.c9dc0157-c9d1-4928-8915-e2896d54f743-1_all_4512.jpg

c9dc0157-c9d1-4928-8915-e2896d54f743-1_all_4515.jpg
 
Hi,
I bought the Bagoros Premium and cut the baseplate at work using Tom's drawing. I had to weld to screws from the back of the baseplate to make it work.
I also powdercoated all parts in black textured powder since I didnt like the Bagoros print.View attachment 6767

View attachment 6768

Looks good!
Do you have some more pics and maybe a side view?
Why does it need to be welded; I thought the Bagoros baseplate is quite similar to the custom 801 baseplate, just different size and different drilled holes?
 
This is how the plateholder is angled after some bending. Should be enough, right?
c9dc0157-c9d1-4928-8915-e2896d54f743-1_all_4514.jpg
Looks good!
Do you have some more pics and maybe a side view?
Why does it need to be welded; I thought the Bagoros baseplate is quite similar to the custom 801 baseplate, just different size and different drilled holes?
Yes, I had to drill one more hole in the baseplate. With the bagoros the baseplate is thicker and threaded so thats why I welded two threaded rods and used nuts from below to get a flat topside.
c9dc0157-c9d1-4928-8915-e2896d54f743-1_all_4526.jpg
 
This is how the plateholder is angled after some bending. Should be enough, right?
View attachment 6770

Yes, I had to drill one more hole in the baseplate. With the bagoros the baseplate is thicker and threaded so thats why I welded two threaded rods and used nuts from below to get a flat topside.
View attachment 6771

The Bagoros seems to be a bit lower than the first Evotech 390 (2017 - 2023) I used.
I would say some more bending may help.
Two pics from the very first attempt with an aluminum plate to support the registration plate; afterwards I corrected the angle of the plate to a tad more than 45°.

240806_01.jpg

390_45°.jpg
 
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No, I think about bolting the tail tidy directly to the baseplate (with two M6 countersunk screws) without an addional mounting block; and using some M5 screws instead of the M6 screws at the back of the baseplate.
I already checked the M5 screws in the M6 threads and also the space above the rearframe behind the taillight; it might work.
I would prefer a solution without additional drillings and threads in the rear frame; but if it will not work as expected, the two additional drillings and threads at the back are an option.
 
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My tail is done. This is using Tom's baseplate with new wider holes drilled and tapped into the subframe because I used the 2024+ duke 390 tidy instead of the earlier one. Signal width is not an issue where I'm at; stock signals replaced with motogadget Blaze Ice signals to avoid the heat from the exhaust.

PXL_20250423_115328980.jpg
 
My tail is done. This is using Tom's baseplate with new wider holes drilled and tapped into the subframe because I used the 2024+ duke 390 tidy instead of the earlier one. Signal width is not an issue where I'm at; stock signals replaced with motogadget Blaze Ice signals to avoid the heat from the exhaust.

View attachment 6792

Do you have an additional pic of a side view?
 
Again some pics of the 390 (2024+) tail tidy with corrected mounting angle; it works with some M5 screws and some M5 nuts instead of the stock M6 screws at the back without an additional mounting block; and the fitment of the tail tidy is very good.

250424_01.jpg

250424_02.jpg

250424_03.jpg



250424_04.jpg
 
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