Exhaust

animals21 said:
I looked a bit more on the graph and the real difference between stock and coober is quite small in 6k+. 2-3hp will not solve my problem. That it is better around 5000 is invalid for me. But good to know, thanks for the graph.
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When do you change gears? I usually don’t rev over 9000rpm
 
I took a ride yesteday and focus on that and I am never below 6000-6500. Means after gearing up and also with brakes and gearing down before curve. I drive just 2km through town and than curvy roads begin, so no commuting or traveling. I have different bike, when I want to chill.

Did anybody make the "snorkel mod" on the airbox? ChatGPT (the one, who know everything :-D) told me about that. I made it yesterday and not sure, if it brings some power, bike feels happier, but how knows. BUT! Better sound. Not louder, just more bass everywhere.
 
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When you open the airbox lid, take out the air filter, there is on each side a rubber snorkel, you just take it out.

On each side of the bike, under the seat, there are silver sieves. Inside is the snorkel. Rubber restriction.

Cost 0, reverzible, so why not to try.
 
@animals21 here a link to a video that might be of interest to you.
It's about tuning options and shows also several dyno-results of a Duke 890.
It seems the Rottweiler air-intake (pic above from yonsson) is indeed a quite interesting possibility to gain some horses.

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A screenshot from the video ("PC" is Power Commander)

Rottweiler_01.jpg
 
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I went through the video yesterday and through the links in the comments. Most interesting two are here:

https://www.motorcycle.com/products...iler-performance-power-plate-for-ktm-790-duke

https://www.motorcycle.com/products...intake-system-for-the-ktm-790-890-duke-review

shortly we can say, that open lid filter ("performance power plate") with dynojet makes just a very slight power increase, I would say almost nothing for the money. If you want really a noticeably more power, you have to go with performance intake system (picture was posted yonsson up there) and rottweiler dynojet with their maps. Disadvantage is "motor warning light" on the dashboard, but you get quite a lot of power.
 
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From my understanding the engine warning light on the dashboard lights up because of the disconnected oxygen sensors if you'll use a Power Commander.
With the "performance intake system" and the Coober LM ECU (instead of the Power Commander) it should work fine without the engine warning light; and the power should also increase noticeable.
 
Tom said:
From my understanding the engine warning light on the dashboard lights up because of the disconnected oxygen sensors if you'll use a Power Commander.
With the "performance intake system" and the Coober LM ECU (instead of the Power Commander) it should work fine without the engine warning light; and the power should also increase noticeable.
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But the Coober is still not a complete ECU right? So still equivalent to the FuelX Pro+ (but uses 3 sensors instead of the 2 on the FuelX).

Meaning, if you want to decat, use the Coober. If no decat, FuelX is fine.
 
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yonsson said:
But the Coober is still not a complete ECU right? So still equivalent to the FuelX Pro+ (but uses 3 sensors instead of the 2 on the FuelX).

Meaning, if you want to decat, use the Coober. If no decat, FuelX is fine.
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Yes, exactely.
The Euro 5 FuelX (with the two sensors) should work as good as the Euro 5+ Coober (with 3 sensors) as the emissions limits of Euro 5 and Euro 5+ / Euro 5b are identical; and therfore the optimized fueling should work fine (approximately identical) with both of them.
With the new Euro 5+ / Euro 5b standard it's mainly the "on board diagnosis II" that is added, which now monitors the bike's emissions; that's why the third oxigen sensor (behind the cat) is added to the system.
 
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I will not do decat. Where did you buy the FuelX and what was the price?

Today I rode my Tuono V4 1100 factory for the first time this year. Wow! Incredible bike!!! But I understood one thing. I am trying to make Svartpilen “a second Tuono” and that will never happend. Svartpilen is great how it is, it will never be even close to power of Tuono and I have to accept it and enjoy the bike how it is, because it is GREAT. It is agile, fun to ride, easy to handle, quite powerfull. I just need to have different approach.

Long story short - I will do FuelX, better brake pads and solve freeplay on throttle and that´s it.
 
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I bought my FuelX lite from Hitchcocks in the Uk. If you are in the US you can get a better deal. For me it was worth it, see my thread about the Fuel X. Don't expect massive changes though.
 
i should wrote “some box”, for me it does nit matter which one. I would take what you will recommend to me. Or what is available in EU for normal money.
 
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Do you have the dynamic pack enabled on your bike?

if not, I wonder if the traction control is holding you back when exciting the corners?

Maybe it's between my ears, but it feels like the power is tamed a bit by the TC when the bike is cornering. I contacted Husqvarna to ask about the TC settings on the standard profiles and this was their response:

Here are the figures of the Traction Controle setting compared to the Slip Adjuster:
4 = Sport
6 = Street
9 = Rain
In the Dynamic mode, the rider can choose which Traction Controle setting he wants between 0 and 9.
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If you're using street mode, testing the sport mode will change how the bike feels and reacts when exciting corners. Zero cost mod, which might help to solve your puzzle.
 
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Yes, I ride normally on dynamic, throttle dynamic (can ´t see much difference against sport, maybe dynamic is a little bit more nervous in low rpm), traction on 2-3 last year. This year, even it is 12-15C here, I switched it off exactly from reasons you are explaining. Probably 1-2 will be ok to be on a safe side.

I am quite focused from track racing on my R6 to be fast but progressive on the throttle. But I am just an amateur. On 1000ccm supersport bike I will NOT switch the traction off, that´s clear.

Thanks for your effort.
 
I also tried to study modern traction control, how it works. On modern bikes the TC on higher level is not waiting for the slide or different speed of the wheels, it will reduce power by counting speed, rpms, throttle possiton and angle. It is more preventive (or predictive). On low level, like 1-3 it should really get activated if you lose traction, if your rear wheel starts to rotated faster then the front wheel.

But sometimes things go wrong :-D That time I had new R6 in my garage, so I just changed bikes and continue ;-)
 

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animals21 said:
I also tried to study modern traction control, how it works. On modern bikes the TC on higher level is not waiting for the slide or different speed of the wheels, it will reduce power by counting speed, rpms, throttle possiton and angle. It is more preventive (or predictive). On low level, like 1-3 it should really get activated if you lose traction, if your rear wheel starts to rotated faster then the front wheel.

But sometimes things go wrong :-D That time I had new R6 in my garage, so I just changed bikes and continue ;-)
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Damn... but that's (unfortunately) sometimes part of the game...
 
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