"Another" Dutch Vitpilen 701

[Harold J.]

Hi All,

After a few reaction posts in other topics from me, i did find the time for a short intro of the "my new to me" privately acquired 2020 model, 2021 first reg 701 Vitpilen (you all know how that model looks like ;-) )

i bought it with a A2 mapping on it deployed.. (KTM germany) i was quite suprised how quick it still pulls, but it quits rather early with the torque (as you will see in the attachment)
first we uploaded the standard 55Kw mapping, adapted that one after a few dyno runs and added a Rapid easy, see under the graphic, why

i did a few, rather small Hardware mods, like SLS removal, but kept the catalyst, both for function and noise (europe is not the best area for too much noise these days) and the effect on performance for street use is minimal in our experience...

the muffler is an aftermarket unit, titanium 45cm long (long is gooood for power and a low noise)

i also did change the HC1 cluch lever for a longer one, to my taste the Vitpilen standard one is too short and Magura do have a longer one in their catalog

time for some images..

first the clutch lever:
before / comparison
Before:

And after:


And the dyno runs in one graphic together for comparison


End result : 80,8 Nm and 77 bhp

we changed / adapted the mapping in the original ECU, but KTM does not allow to change the values in the close loop areas
so for those areas a Rapid easy was used you can see the results... no need for extra mods ;-)

regarding AF, the RED line is the one we managed to deploy

IMHO there is no "out of the box" solution, as each bike is different, Hardware changes do matter even tiny ones..

before someone asks... simple and cheap Decats do not bring much for street use IMHO and if you do it, you need more extensive remapping and a more expensive (Rapid) unit... (the "old" Power commander 5 is phased out, the 6 is too limited and expensive therefore) as said "out of the box" is not a great solution IMHO

cheers
Harold

 

[ErMartux]

intresting how the full power map maintain the closed loop only till 3300 rpm and then drops the afr to a "rich" setting of 13 to 13.4 .... i think that it's possible to installa a simple resistor to trick the ecu that is running lean and reduce the closed loop leaning

 

[BISavage]

Nice post!
How did you do the air filter / air box?

 

[LuisLAN]

Unrelated to the topic, but where did you get that button mount from? (See picture)

 

[Vatte]

Isn't it a normal zip tie?

 

[LuisLAN]

Isn't it a normal zip tie?

I guess I should have said button instead of mount.
That button has the right shape to fit the handlebar.
I want to get a button like that.

 

[Harold J.]

intresting how the full power map maintain the closed loop only till 3300 rpm and then drops the afr to a "rich" setting of 13 to 13.4 .... i think that it's possible to installa a simple resistor to trick the ecu that is running lean and reduce the closed loop leaning

Tbh, that is a way too simple approach. IMHO the whole mapping needs attention, if you can read and understand the readings/curves it is quite clear… and tweaking is only possible if you make dyno runs of that particular bike..
As said, there is NO out of the box solution (imho)

 

[Harold J.]

Nice post!
How did you do the air filter / air box?

The blue curves are with the lid on… before tweaking the maping and before implementation of the Rapid-easy

Both the red curves are after tweaking the mapping and after the implementation of the Rapid-easy with the lid off (by mistake tbh.. i suspect it doesn’t make a big difference though.. i only realised the the lid was off, after dismounting the Vit from the dyno, so didn’t make a run with the lid on therefore..

 

[Harold J.]

I guess I should have said button instead of mount.
That button has the right shape to fit the handlebar.
I want to get a button like that.

That button is from the installed coolride handlebar heating system.
It is NOT a simple on/of switch , it is a heating intensity selection button (with led light in it)

Coolride uses heating elements IN the handlebar, so no seperate grips with external wiring on the grips.
This one is with outside temperature adaption (if you ride a pass it adapts while riding and outside temps lowers or rises)

Coolride the luxe

 

[LuisLAN]

That button is from the installed coolride handlebar heating system.
It is NOT a simple on/of switch , it is a heating intensity selection button (with led light in it)

Coolride uses heating elements IN the handlebar, so no seperate grips with external wiring on the grips.
This one is with outside temperature adaption (if you ride a pass it adapts while riding and outside temps lowers or rises)

Coolride the luxe

That is pretty neat, and it doubles as a vibration dampener. Does it work well with any grips?

 

[Harold J.]

That is pretty neat, and it doubles as a vibration dampener. Does it work well with any grips?

Yupps IMHO best there is.. developed in the artic circle (in winter time ;-) ) EU made.

the cartridges are rather heavy indeed, pretty ideal when using the bar-end mirrors (and so losing the internatbar-end weights if you use the factory bar-end mirrors..)

Works with ANY grips, the Throttle grip generates effectively the same heat as the clutch side... they are also usable for snowmobile etc. ;-)

there is a rugged budget one (knob to large for my taste on a Vit/Svart pilen), a "medium" (will do for 90% of the users) and a outside temp regulated model for people living in the mountains. ALL can be up or down graded later on... and/or reused/moved to another motorcycle..

different size cartridges AND electronics are seperately available if needed/wanted..

i have to say it to stay "clean": i am a dealer of this brand, but we also sell other brands for different budgets/needs.
on my private motorcyles like the VIT 701 i only use Coolride Comfort | De Luxe, as i like it clean, rugged and comfortable with 5 heating positions
same on the private owned BMW's, Guzzi's etc.

 

[LuisLAN]

Yupps IMHO best there is.. developed in the artic circle (in winter time ;-) ) EU made.

the cartridges are rather heavy indeed, pretty ideal when using the bar-end mirrors (and so losing the internatbar-end weights if you use the factory bar-end mirrors..)

Works with ANY grips, the Throttle grip generates effectively the same heat as the clutch side... they are also usable for snowmobile etc. ;-)

there is a rugged budget one (knob to large for my taste on a Vit/Svart pilen), a "medium" (will do for 90% of the users) and a outside temp regulated model for people living in the mountains. ALL can be up or down graded later on... and/or reused/moved to another motorcycle..

different size cartridges AND electronics are seperately available if needed/wanted..

i have to say it to stay "clean": i am a dealer of this brand, but we also sell other brands for different budgets/needs.
on my private motorcyles like the VIT 701 i only use Coolride Comfort | De Luxe, as i like it clean, rugged and comfortable with 5 heating positions
same on the private owned BMW's, Guzzi's etc.

So all the wiring goes inside the bar? Do you know what's the working amperage at full power?
Also, does the button LED indicate on/off status or heat level setting?
Apologies for veering the thread from the main subject.

 

[Harold J.]

So all the wiring goes inside the bar? Do you know what's the working amperage at full power?
Also, does the button LED indicate on/off status or heat level setting?
Apologies for veering the thread from the main subject.

yes all wiring inside the bar, on a Svartpilen you need one central hole, on my Vitpilen i have 2 holes near the top yoke, (underside) , because there is no connection between the two clip-ons ;-)

led button:
- Does not light up Output inactive,
Power level 0
- Flashes slowly approx. 0.5/s switch-on delay
(0%) active
-Flashes medium approx. 2/s preheating phase
(100%) active
-Flashes 1-5 times Corresponding Power level
-Select level
-If the output is active continuously,
Performance level 1-5
and if needed you can swich levels

it has a memory function for next start (after a short break, you like the same position normally)


2 heating cartridges 90 mm long, 26 watts each = 52 watts total power


but let's not make this an on going heating grip topic please... if you need more info, go to my website, have a look or use the contact form there (dutch, but hej goole translate will translate the whole website if needed) or start a heatinggrip topic ;-)

 

[Satur9]

yes all wiring inside the bar, on a Svartpilen you need one central hole, on my Vitpilen i have 2 holes near the top yoke, (underside) , because there is no connection between the two clip-ons ;-)

led button:
- Does not light up Output inactive,
Power level 0
- Flashes slowly approx. 0.5/s switch-on delay
(0%) active
-Flashes medium approx. 2/s preheating phase
(100%) active
-Flashes 1-5 times Corresponding Power level
-Select level
-If the output is active continuously,
Performance level 1-5
and if needed you can swich levels

it has a memory function for next start (after a short break, you like the same position normally)


2 heating cartridges 90 mm long, 26 watts each = 52 watts total power


but let's not make this an on going heating grip topic please... if you need more info, go to my website, have a look or use the contact form there (dutch, but hej goole translate will translate the whole website if needed) or start a heatinggrip topic ;-)

Wow. Another pilen with coolride. I also needed the " clean look".

 

[Harold J.]

as stated above in the opening, i used an aftermarket muffler, with the original CAT (CAT removal brings almost nothing regarding torque, and i want torque on the road..)
IMHO most aftermarket mufflers for Vitpilen are too short... TOO short for power and TOO short for a LOW sound...
i like longer mufflers for both reasons...

many people on forums are talking about "back Presure", well "back-presure" is only needed for 2-stroke's, BUT on a 4-stroke we need/use the shockwave (on each power stroke) to be timed exactly at the right moment to arrive/return at the opening oof the exhaust valve, to help the gases out.. and for that reason the length (and diameter) is important, very important... even 1 cm wrong and the shock-wave return at the exhaustvalve can be timed wrong, so the engine is losing power instead of winning power..

i think the prove is in the dyno graph..

this muffler is used..:
Delkevic (on the Dyno-graph WITH DB-killer)
yes the sound without it IS fabulous ;-) BUT in the EU, riding without the DB-killer is NOT acceptable anymore really, it is too crowded these days IMHO and stretching the "rulles" will back-fire to all motorcyclists (in time)