701 Brake Options

Max Kool said:
I have the feeling this whole exercise is more philosophical than practical, and a justification just to spend money. đŸ€·đŸ»â€â™‚ïž
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I dont know...
I guess everyone experiences their bike in a different way, and I am willing to fork out the dough required to "tune it like I like to ride it", whether its a pipe thats only laud, or paint thats only flashy, or in this case brakes that arent round.
Whether or not its going to make the bike better for anyone else, is not of consequence , its my bike son, and thats how I roll.
🎅
 
Make dot dry temp wet temp

AP Racing 551 - DOT3 - 527° F (275° C) / 302Âș F (145Âș C)

AP Racing 600 - DOT3 - 590° F (310° C) / 410° F (210° C)

AP PRF Racing - DOT4 - 608° F (320Âș C) / 311° F (155Âș C)

Ate SL6 - DOT4 + ISO6 - 509° F (265° C) / 347° F (175° C)

Ate Super Blue - DOT4 - 536Âș F (280Âș C) / 390Âș F (194Âș C)

Ate Super 200 - DOT4 - 536Âș F (280Âș C) / 390Âș F (194Âș C)

Bosch - DOT3 - 491Âș F (255Âș C) / 288Âș F (142Âș C)

Bosch - DOT4 - 509Âș F (265Âș C) / 329Âș F (165Âș C)

Bosch - DOT4+ - 536Âș F (280Âș C) / 356Âș F (180Âș C)

Brembo LCF 600+ - DOT4 - 601Âș F (316Âș C) / 399Âș F (204Âș C)

Brembo EVO 500+ - DOT4 - 520Âș F (271Âș C) / 336Âș F (169Âș C)

Castrol GT LMA - DOT4 - 509Âș F (265Âș C) / 311Âș F (155Âș C)

Castrol SRF - DOT4 - 590Âș F (320Âș C) / 518Âș F (264Âș C)

EBC BF 307+ - DOT4 - 589° F (307° C) / 386° F (196° C)

Endless RF-650 - DOT4 - 612° F (323° C) / 425° F (218° C)

Endless S-Four High-Perf. - DOT4 - 567° F (297Âș C) / 366Âș F (187Âș C)

Ferodo Racing DOT5.1 - DOT5.1 - 500° F (260° C) / XXXX (XXXX)

Ferodo Racing Formula - DOT4 - 572° F (300° C) / XXXX (XXXX)

Ferodo Racing Super Formula - DOT4 - 625° F (330° C) / XXXX (XXXX)

GS610 - DOT4 - 610° F (321° C) / 421° F (216° C)

Gunk HD - DOT4 - 510Âș F (266Âș C) / 311Âș F (155Âș C)

Millers Racing 300 Plus - DOT4 - 590° F (310° C) / XXXX (XXXX)

Motul DOT 5.1 - DOT5.1 - 509Âș F (265Âș C) / 365Âș F (185Âș C)

Motul RBF 600 - DOT4 - 594Âș F (312Âș C) / 402Âș F (205Âș C)

Motul RBF 660 - DOT4 - 617Âș F (325Âș C) / 400Âș F (204Âș C)

Motorex 300°C 195°C

Neo Super DOT16 - DOT4 - 610° F (322° C) / 421° F (216° C)

Pentosin Super - DOT4 - 500° F (260° C) / 338° F (170° C)

Pentosin RBF - DOT4 - 572° F (300° C) / 392Âș F (200° C)

Performance Friction RH665 - DOT4 - 617° F (325° C) / 395° F (195° C)

Project ” G-four 335 - DOT4 - 634° F (335° C) / 429° F (221° C)

Prospeed RS683 - DOT4 - 683° F (360° C) / 439° F (224° C)

Ravenol Racing Brake Fluit R325 - 307° C / 202 ° C

Tarox Roadrace - DOT4 - 583° F (314° C) / 402° F (205° C)

TRW Grand Prix 600 - DOT5.1 - 594Âș F (312Âș C) / 400Âș F (204Âș C)

ValvolineProSyn - DOT3/4 - 527Âș F (275Âș C) / 347Âș F (175Âș C)

Wilwood Hi-Temp 570 - DOT3 - 570Âș F (299Âș C) / 284Âș F (140Âș C)

Wilwood EXP600 Plus - DOT4 - 633Âș F (330Âș C) / 417Âș F (213Âș C)

Credits by racing4fun
 
Although the castrol I went with is listed in the bike manual has the folowing Spec:

Castrol react - DOT4 - 280Âș C min / 160° Cmin

In a test it was show to perform better than many others after having been in on the bike for a longer time.
 
Vintage Veloce said:
The biggest brake gains are likely gain by practice and some instruction at a good race school...
I remember practicing braking many years ago and being bothered by a thunking sound/feeling in the back. I then realized I was doing my first stoppies...
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Or bottoming-out the front end with confidence to carry the corner. Just plain ‘ole good set up to use all of the suspension travel.
 
Isnt there a special term for stylish turning, when you are full on the front and then to roll on the gas while "dragging" the back brake before you come off the front brakes?

Or is that 1980' techniques that are obsolete with modern bikes...
 
BISavage said:
Isnt there a special term for stylish turning, when you are full on the front and then to roll on the gas while "dragging" the back brake before you come off the front brakes?

Or is that 1980' techniques that are obsolete with modern bikes...
Click to expand...
Trail braking you mean?
 
Being old skool, trail braking is my preferred technique. As I’m not a pro, for me it is much easier to manage with not so aggressive biting brakes. For some action just apply more rear brake and “steer with the rear”.
 
svartron said:
Being old skool, trail braking is my preferred technique. As I’m not a pro, for me it is much easier to manage with not so aggressive biting brakes. For some action just apply more rear brake and “steer with the rear”.
Click to expand...
We talking about the same here? Trail braking is trailing the front brake into a corner (not the rear). Lightly but all the way until you can open the throttle again. With the aim to load the front of the bike (suspension, front tire).
 
Then what is it called, when, while the front is loaded, you throttle it while holding the power down with the back brake, before releasing the front.
 
If what you mean is at very low speeds (U turns for example), I do that too to keep the bike stable. A smidgen throttle and the rear brake on to keep tension on the chain.

Or at medium/higher speeds to keep a tighter line.
 
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