801 Slip-on / exhaust list

Anyone know the difference between the Ixil and Ixrace exhausts?

Both seem to be homologated but the IxRace is cheaper.
 
Hi people! In the end I made up my mind, the exhaust is definitely the voice of the bike and complements the character of the bike, without trying to gain power I chose this and I'm very happy 😍
 

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Nice Bike!
Did you mount the Arrow at your bike without any problems? I tried to mount it - it was not possible...
The Flange of the pre-muffler is too long, you cannot slide on the muffler far enough...
 
Nice Bike!
Did you mount the Arrow at your bike without any problems? I tried to mount it - it was not possible...
The Flange of the pre-muffler is too long, you cannot slide on the muffler far enough...
Thank you! Actually I only had this problem, but it was immediately solved, I left the side fixing pin slow and I tightened the fringe with the supplied pin longer than the original until it was perfectly coupled, then I reciprocated it with the original and then I tightened the side support pin that does not remain central but yes as it has a rubber it holds firm perfectly.
 
Nice Bike!
Did you mount the Arrow at your bike without any problems? I tried to mount it - it was not possible...
The Flange of the pre-muffler is too long, you cannot slide on the muffler far enough...
Did you try it the way I described earlier?

I had the same issue, the force of the pliers on the clamp (forcing them together) did the trick, and it now slides on perfect. It just takes a bit of elbow grease on the first fitting.
I actually installed the arrow about an hour ago.
I can confirm that the installation is a bit tricky because of the clamp.

Here’s how I managed it:
- disassemble the clamp fully (the installation guide says not to)
- grease up the inside of the clamp and flange with the metal-paste that came in the kit
- install the exhaust and put it as far over the flange so you can connect to the mounting point with the supplied bolt.
- install the clamp over the center of both flanges
- place the bolt in the clamp on the lower part (as guide shows) so you can reach it from next to the rear suspension coil
- get a pair of pliers and grab the ends of the part of the clamp where the screw goes through and tighten the clamps. This will clamp both flanges.

If you grab the bottom of the clamps (where the screw mounts) you have just enough space to insert the bolt above the grabbing pliers. After that you can further screw in the bolt of the clamp and it will tighten the flanges nicely. Just make sure it positioned correctly when tightening.

I did all this from the left side of the bike.
 
Delkevic 260mm Titanium slip on and Duke790/800NK link pipe installed.
It sounds deeper and moderately louder than the original one (with the dB killer removed).

It fits just fine, only trick is using the rubber/stainless steel bracket for better positioning, otherwise it would touch the side panel with the carbon fibre one.
 

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Hi Yonsson! I wanted to ask you what handguards you used on the bike because I have mirrors on the handlebars?
 
I put Remus on my Vit 801. How do I remove the DB? I unscrewed all the screws, but it won't come out((( Isn't it welded?
 

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Hi all, long time lurker.

I've been really enjoying my 801, it's a dream to ride. I'd like to get slip-on though for a lighlty deeper growl and by the looks of things people have had pretty solid success with the 71975AKN - Exhaust Muffler Arrow Indy Race EVO Dark Husqvarna Svartpilen 801. ( https://em-moto.com/en/71975akn.html ) before I take the leap, is it a pretty simple install? And is there anything to worry about CAT wise? is it just mostly, slip off/slip on and go for it?
 
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Yes, that’s why I bought this one. The models with welded mounts would make it very hard to make a new mount.

View attachment 5497View attachment 5496
There are two db-killers on this system. The first one is inside the middle pipe and it’s welded. Then there’s the pleasure toy looking db-killer inside the slipon, it was easy to pull out. It’s supposedly legal with both in but it doesn’t come with the certification for EU.
I’m going to attempt to remove that second pin and welded DB killer
 
Question for the Husky veterans here: With a decat, straight-through exhaust, I think the Coober LM fuel module only works during closed-loop operation (low/mid RPM lambda signal corrections) and does nothing for high RPM fueling ratios. If true, does a decat exhaust make high RPM's too lean for the ECU fuel tables or are the OEM tables rich enough (or adaptable enough) to cause no damage from excess leanness?
 
Question for the Husky veterans here: With a decat, straight-through exhaust, I think the Coober LM fuel module only works during closed-loop operation (low/mid RPM lambda signal corrections) and does nothing for high RPM fueling ratios. If true, does a decat exhaust make high RPM's too lean for the ECU fuel tables or are the OEM tables rich enough (or adaptable enough) to cause no damage from excess leanness?
I would ask Coober, they normally reply promptly. I have the Coober btw
 
Question for the Husky veterans here: With a decat, straight-through exhaust, I think the Coober LM fuel module only works during closed-loop operation (low/mid RPM lambda signal corrections) and does nothing for high RPM fueling ratios. If true, does a decat exhaust make high RPM's too lean for the ECU fuel tables or are the OEM tables rich enough (or adaptable enough) to cause no damage from excess leanness?
I have read/heard conflicting information regarding whether the Bosch ECU can adjust the AFR values enough even without the cat; however, an error message will appear on the display. Here a dyno-graph showing the AFR values with and without the Cooper LM ECU.

Duke890_Coober_01a.jpg
 
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