Tuning

I will pull out a manual and find the page...

In the mean time, I do it like this, as the manual details:
Important: the bike sensors needs to say the coolent is cold, like less than 25°c, or it wont work.
1. Plug in my Diagnostic thing, turn the key on, clear the codes and parameters with the diagnostic thing, then turn the key off.(probably optional unless you have an engine light on)
2. Turn the key on, wait for the tacho to be initialized, then slowly turn the throttle to max, then slowly turn the throttle to 0%, then turn the key off.
3. Turn the key on, start the bike without giving throttle, and let it run for more than 10min without touching anything (otherwise it will abort), then turn the bike off.
4. Ride the bike and let it "learn"

Done.

This video shows about the same thing.

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Thanks so much for sharing this.
My throttle, while slow turning, has absolutely no “free-play” anymore and picks up the throttle now beginning with the slightest twist movement. Such was not the case before performing this calibration. Thank you again!
 
Max Kool said:
Throttle spacers are a must, and an absolute win. 👍🏻
Click to expand...
Are they. I've seen them on eBay. But haven't notice play in my throttle. So I didn't want to waste my money even though the are cheap.and I've wasted plenty money before.
 
Your throttle doesn't have play? That's odd (and good).

Mine could roll backward a few degrees before something happened, which made mid-turn opening the throttle awkward.
 
Max Kool said:
Your throttle doesn't have play? That's odd (and good).

Mine could roll backward a few degrees before something happened, which made mid-turn opening the throttle awkward.
Click to expand...
Not anymore.
Do steps 2 through 4 above. MONEY!

2. Turn the key on, wait for the tacho to be initialized, then slowly turn the throttle to max, then slowly turn the throttle to 0%, then turn the key off.
3. Turn the key on, start the bike without giving throttle, and let it run for more than 10min without touching anything (otherwise it will abort), then turn the bike off.
4. Ride the bike and let it "learn"
 
Oh we’re talking two different things here, my bad.

Many bikes (KTM, Ducati) have physical play between the throttle tube and the internals of the throttle by wire unit. You can feel that even with the engine off.

No amount of recalibrating can fix that.

That’s what these spacers fix.
 
Max Kool said:
Many bikes (KTM, Ducati) have physical play between the throttle tube and the internals of the throttle

That’s what these spacers fix.
Click to expand...

I had the plastic ones installed and was trying to wrap my head around why ducati, ktm, etc would leave play... and I assume its because when there is no play, you release the throttle and you get the weight of the throttle accelerated into the mechanical stop makin a "thump" noise.

And I assume excessive thumping into plastic would probably lead to premature failure of something or other...

So I took out the plastic spacers and did somethin different.
I put some fluffy velcro, the kind with heavy duty stickyness, on one side of both of the tabs.

This fluffyness pushes the throttle to where its firm against the accelerate direction, and at the same time dampens the throttle into the mechanical stop when turning towards deceleration, or simply releasing.

🙈
 
Many use it to hold on guage pods to car A pillar, there the sun makes it very hot, and lowered cars are often very bumpy... no issues.
 
It didn’t lasted for long in my car. After a year the glue failed and things started to fall off. (Stopwatch, penholder, parking disk) It also depends on the surface. Thumbs up that it will last in your throttle.
 
I use this on for Koso guage and it held even after summer heat, rain, ice, deer...

Edit: I treid 2 other types before this one type, and they did not work satisfactorily
 
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