Timing Chain Tension Noise

Yes, if it's under warranty and they agree the sound is strange, they should be digging in under the warranty...
That said, maybe take it by another shop for them to listen. Someplace that is very familiar with the 701 and ktm 790 engines. It's hard to diagnose stuff from a video, but there are some mechanics with golden ears...
 
Unfortunately the bike is no longer under warranty. I will eventually take it back - maybe to this shop maybe to another. But as of now I can't afford to spend much money.
 
if your clutch slave cylinder was broke and they did not exchange the oil in the motor after exchange
-could be that the polygylcolether leaked in & contaminated your system that can damage your motor easy due to missing glide effect
& it could drop the pH of the motoroil to coca cola levels...im constant thinking about the risk that i also not have an aftermarket part on it ;(

but i also now that the neutral at 701s sound like a small tractor ;) so you have to drive in first gear to check regular engine noise
tensioner vs gearing plates ...that some times also have different friction sounds ...

also if you run it 15 minutes standing it set it self up on ground level & o2 conditions of your environment
the motor timing will take minor adjustments thx of the smart snarky ecu setups
 
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Yeah, I just saw a few videos from Pirate Racing about that subject. Although not confirmed that a few ccs of brake fluid will ruin you engine, better safe than sorry because he had two bikes now that had engine damage at low mileage, and both had a leaking clutch cylinder... no one could confirm the oil was changed after the leaking slave cylinder...
 
was a topic last year or so i remember that one well...
dealer say they dont exchange cause its not part of the damaged element so better customers convince them to ask for the time payed by ktm/husk and the oil separate as consumption good...

on the other side i see that as an construction issue that keeps them busy 6 min service cost around 15 bucks
 
I have to be honest here, I didn't replace the oil when mine leaked. That said, I repaired it right away (so I didn't pump a few reservoirs through the cylinder), and I found quite some oil in the cavity between the slave cylinder and the engine case.

Fingers crossed...
 
yeah finger crossed
how many miles did you have done since ? i had two times minor failing clutch for a few secs and im naiv to belive that those were bubbles in the system
but could be a diagonal de postion of the slave cylinder that could allow leak inn / im now at 580 km so 420km difference and gonna to listen/feel all the time that im gonna need to do something cluch reservoir is still full

and the traktor noise in neutral at redlight were on my 401 also present...
im gonna need aftermarket part and will exchange oil soon...
i can sample it and test it on pH /EC and viscosity myself but may send it to some lab buddy's to do full spectrum check for fun
 
Mine failed around 900 miles or so, and I did the next oil change at 3000… my bike is at 5500 miles now.

(there’s still a seal in the engine case behind the clutch slave)
 
Some suspect that failing conrod bearings are connected to oil contaminated by brake fluid.
A failed conrod bearing noise is usually rumbling in its early state and a knocking noise soon after.
In your video I heard more of a irregular grinding noise. To me it sounds more like a roller or ball bearing.
This is all guesswork and I would drain the oil in a clean pan and check for metallic debris.
If the oil is clean I would check over again for a sticking or blocked timing chain tensioner.

An other option you could easily try by yourself. Take a long screw driver or similar. With the engine running place one end to your ear and point with the other end to different parts on your engine. You might be able to locate from where about the noise is coming from. To diagnose sound from a video is very difficult. If I’m right the noise is more from the clutch side. Maybe something has just come loose or it is an cheap other fix like a broken clutch spring...

Try to locate the noise and check your oil carefully for metal shavings.

My 2 cents.
 
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svartron said:
Some suspect that failing conrod bearings are connected to oil contaminated by brake fluid.
A failed conrod bearing noise is usually rumbling in its early state and a knocking noise soon after.
In your video I heard more of a irregular grinding noise. To me it sounds more like a roller or ball bearing.
This is all guesswork and I would drain the oil in a clean pan and check for metallic debris.
If the oil is clean I would check over again for a sticking or blocked clutch tensioner.

An other option you could easily try by yourself. Take a long screw driver or similar. With the engine running place one end to your ear and point with the other end to different parts on your engine. You might be able to locate from where about the noise is coming from. To diagnose sound from a video is very difficult. If I’m right the noise is more from the clutch side. Maybe something has just come loose or it is an cheap other fix like a broken clutch spring...

Try to locate the noise and check your oil carefully for metal shavings.

My 2 cents.
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Thanks svarton.
There were no metal shavings or debris when the oil was drained and the chain tension was ok. It was difficult to pinpoint exactly where the noise was coming from when I used the screwdriver method.
 
I would still bet on the timing chain tensioner. Take it out, take it apart, clean it, check the o-ring and put it back in. I’m not familiar with any way to check the timing chain tension.
 
svartron said:
I would still bet on the timing chain tensioner. Take it out, take it apart, clean it, check the o-ring and put it back in. I’m not familiar with any way to check the timing chain tension.
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Funny enough, I decided to remove the tensioner and pump it empty as per that Pirate racing video.
I've never done it befor so I don't know what I am supposed to see wrong exactly (if it is the issue). It pumped out a little oil and it was all clean and looking ok. I locked it back in place and installed as per that video.
The only thing I would say happened that was different is that my o ring came out loose along with the actual tensioner.
It looked like it was in good condition so I put it back in place (I assume right to the back of that cavity and not further inside because it's far too large).
I tightened everything back, started the bike - and it did not give me that grinding rubbing noise. No leaks either so it appears to be installed correctly.
I am gonna let it cool back down and start it up later and hope the noise doesn't reappear. Will keep you guys posted.

Sadly still a bit too chilly where I am to test ride.
 
Well done(y) You might look for a different and more experienced bike shop or you fix it in future by yourself ;).
Ride safe!
 
svartron said:
Well done(y) You might look for a different and more experienced bike shop or you fix it in future by yourself ;).
Ride safe!
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Thanks svatrtron (y)
I only went to this particular shop because they are the only husky dealer closeby - and they are super friendly.
I only wish I had a garage so I could do most of the work myself. This was a small thing to check so I was able to get it done quick.
 
Good on you. With European bikes, you will find that working on your own bikes is the only way to roll. ...& especially with resources like this forum... and friends in the know. :-)
 
gzo1984 said:
Well looks like the sound is gone. Second cold start later in the day and that noise is gone. Even managed to get a ride in. Took a dinner break and third cold start - still good. I wish I checked that before going to the dealer. Lesson learned and thanks for the input everyone. (y)(y)
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gzo, great result there, good on you for digging deeper and finding a solution, I find it incredible that these motors are so mechanical noisy, after being around for many many years, and much development, most of the time I ride with earplugs, so don't hear the music below, but the other day I did some town riding without ear plugs, and man was it noisy from the motor...
Does anyone have a link to the pirate racing video with the cam chain tensioner bit.? Keen to have a look :)
 
Wanderer said:
gzo, great result there, good on you for digging deeper and finding a solution, I find it incredible that these motors are so mechanical noisy, after being around for many many years, and much development, most of the time I ride with earplugs, so don't hear the music below, but the other day I did some town riding without ear plugs, and man was it noisy from the motor...
Does anyone have a link to the pirate racing video with the cam chain tensioner bit.? Keen to have a look :)
Click to expand...

Rock'n roll

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Wanderer said:
gzo, great result there, good on you for digging deeper and finding a solution, I find it incredible that these motors are so mechanical noisy, after being around for many many years, and much development, most of the time I ride with earplugs, so don't hear the music below, but the other day I did some town riding without ear plugs, and man was it noisy from the motor...
Does anyone have a link to the pirate racing video with the cam chain tensioner bit.? Keen to have a look :)
Click to expand...

Thanks Wanderer. Yeah it's a noisy engine for sure. I also ride with earplugs so I don't hear it so much. And an aftermarket exhaust helps it sound better. But yeah the clitter clatter noise isn't the greatest.
 
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