So I'm doing a thing...

Finally wrapped up the garage opener. Chamberlain mini 3 button, knocked down the bike's 12V to 3.3V using a simple buck converter and then epoxied the whole thing to make it waterproof.

PXL_20240116_223342712.jpg

Mounted behind the weird little black polygon where the bike's grounds connect. Power comes from the switched accessory wire in the harness right at that location. A little poly sleeving and all done.

PXL_20240128_170147119.jpg

Also did the rear wave rotor, stock is 788g wave is 588g. Someone asked in one of the threads once how to get the rear wheel off without chunking it on the rear brake caliper - if you are on a rear stand, pull the rear axle bolt, roll the wheel forward enough to unwrap the chain off the sprocket and then take the screw out of the rearmost mount for the chain guard. This will let you flex the chain guard outside of the swingarm, then when you roll the wheel backwards right before it hits the caliper pivot it so the front end of the tire is up against the left side of the swingarm. This will give you enough room to roll the wheel out. If you don't get the chain guard out of the way the wheel can't pivot enough and you wind up with chipped rear wheel paint.
 
toast449 said:
Finally wrapped up the garage opener. Chamberlain mini 3 button, knocked down the bike's 12V to 3.3V using a simple buck converter and then epoxied the whole thing to make it waterproof.

View attachment 4959

Mounted behind the weird little black polygon where the bike's grounds connect. Power comes from the switched accessory wire in the harness right at that location. A little poly sleeving and all done.

View attachment 4960

Also did the rear wave rotor, stock is 788g wave is 588g. Someone asked in one of the threads once how to get the rear wheel off without chunking it on the rear brake caliper - if you are on a rear stand, pull the rear axle bolt, roll the wheel forward enough to unwrap the chain off the sprocket and then take the screw out of the rearmost mount for the chain guard. This will let you flex the chain guard outside of the swingarm, then when you roll the wheel backwards right before it hits the caliper pivot it so the front end of the tire is up against the left side of the swingarm. This will give you enough room to roll the wheel out. If you don't get the chain guard out of the way the wheel can't pivot enough and you wind up with chipped rear wheel paint.
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Really neat work there. So cool.
 
I did it simpler. I connected a switch to a Chamberlain universal opener and put the opener in-between the battery under the seat and used a button on the frame right next to the seat
 
Installed Powertronic ECU and the stage2 DNA filter kit. Used Powertronic's 'exhaust' downloadable map to run it. They did a nice job with the tune file, I made a small sleeve extension to put just upstream of the muffler so that I could run a wideband O2 meter. A little ghetto looking but it got the job done for testing purposes. Under full load the A/F ratio was high 12's, that is exactly where I would put it if I had it on a dyno.

While the filter definitely makes more power it might be one of the worse sounding upgrades I've ever done on a bike. When you whack the throttle open it is like there is a giant goose honking right under your nuts. I'm pretty sure I'm going to take the power hit and go back to the stock cover. The addition of the powertronic alone also gives more power since it leans out the top end a little and advances timing.

Just FYI for others.
 
toast449 said:
Installed Powertronic ECU and the stage2 DNA filter kit. Used Powertronic's 'exhaust' downloadable map to run it. They did a nice job with the tune file, I made a small sleeve extension to put just upstream of the muffler so that I could run a wideband O2 meter. A little ghetto looking but it got the job done for testing purposes. Under full load the A/F ratio was high 12's, that is exactly where I would put it if I had it on a dyno.

While the filter definitely makes more power it might be one of the worse sounding upgrades I've ever done on a bike. When you whack the throttle open it is like there is a giant goose honking right under your nuts. I'm pretty sure I'm going to take the power hit and go back to the stock cover. The addition of the powertronic alone also gives more power since it leans out the top end a little and advances timing.

Just FYI for others.
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Some like that "intake honk", but it can be obnoxiously loud on some bikes.

So you have both the FuelX and the ECU, correct? I was planning for Mivv head-pipe back to stock can (no cats, no resonator) with stock intake, hoping to use just the FuelX Lite and avoid the ECU.
 
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The FuelX only corrects closed loop operation - light to moderate throttle and loads. As soon as you whack the throttle open you go right back to the stock tables that are overly lean for a stock exhaust. I would not run an exhaust without both (although I think a lot of people do).

The transition in the fueling tables for the Powertronic from adding fuel to taking away happens around 6k rpm, so if you do run that way I would just avoid heavy throttle below that RPM and you should be fine.
 
toast449 said:
The FuelX only corrects closed loop operation - light to moderate throttle and loads. As soon as you whack the throttle open you go right back to the stock tables that are overly lean for a stock exhaust. I would not run an exhaust without both (although I think a lot of people do).

The transition in the fueling tables for the Powertronic from adding fuel to taking away happens around 6k rpm, so if you do run that way I would just avoid heavy throttle below that RPM and you should be fine.
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I thought the consensus was these engines run a bit richer up top (open loop). Perhaps that's not actually true.
I may track down a sniffer and check it out. No way I'm going to be able to stay under 6k on this little guy. :D

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No, that is what I'm saying. Up top in open loop you are fine. The powertronic actually removes fuel over 6k rpm. But below that it is adding it, quite a bit in the exhaust map. You can avoid running lean as long as you have a FuelX lite and stick with moderate throttle below 6k.
 
toast449 said:
No, that is what I'm saying. Up top in open loop you are fine. The powertronic actually removes fuel over 6k rpm. But below that it is adding it, quite a bit in the exhaust map. You can avoid running lean as long as you have a FuelX lite and stick with moderate throttle below 6k.
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Gotcha, thank you.
 
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