OBD2 scanner

Btw. I got a Bluetooth one didn't work. This wifi one did.Wireless WiFi OBD2 Scanner for iPhone/iOS & Android, AUCARAUTO Elm327 Professional Car Auto Check Engine Light Code Reader & Diagnostic Scan Tools Fits All Vehicles in The US from 1996 to Latest https://a.co/d/bwayCOy
Ymmv
 
This is absolut normal. The ABS sensors have to calibrate while some wheel rotations.
For all the failures that randomly pop up on my dash from time to time. There wasn't any fault codes stored in mine. I think they only show if there's a check engine light or a canbus component stops talking for a set interval . Ymmv. I just bought it to read sensor outputs.
Just to be clear, I know the TC light is supposed to stay on until you start moving, but I get an "TC Failure". If they aren't stored anyway I'll save my money.
 
I just get the light. I don't get a message everytime. Though I have seen the message before .
I get the message, but it's very brief, 2-3 seconds at most. I've also gotten ABS and can bus messages while riding but these are sporadic and only happen for a few seconds. I just ignore all this, the TC does work (I can turn it off and on) and ABS is fine.
 
Just to be clear, I know the TC light is supposed to stay on until you start moving, but I get an "TC Failure". If they aren't stored anyway I'll save my money.
It could be only the dealer husky computer can read specific faults that the standard car OBD2 readers can't. Just for info
 
I get the message, but it's very brief, 2-3 seconds at most. I've also gotten ABS and can bus messages while riding but these are sporadic and only happen for a few seconds. I just ignore all this, the TC does work (I can turn it off and on) and ABS is fine.
Did you checked already the firm fit of the fuses?
 
So I got another adapter off Amazon wifi instead of Bluetooth. This one works. Uo122 ( ecu communication failure) is a logged code. I had a check engine light shortly after trying first adapter but went away before I tried this on. Haven't had any other cels. But it's been taking 2 or more tries to start. And I think I found the culprit. I did notice the usual whirring was gone. It's sounds loud in video but barely audible if not crouched next to bike and not wearing earplugs and helmet as usual
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Mine has always sound like that, and (so far) it starts without issues everytime.
 
Mine has always sound like that, and (so far) it starts without issues everytime.
It's was louder and more consistent ( not rickety) when new. Unfortunately that was not my starting issue problem. I did find the problem . And it's starts fine now. But I'm very upset.
 
It's was louder and more consistent ( not rickety) when new. Unfortunately that was not my starting issue problem. I did find the problem . And it's starts fine now. But I'm very upset.
So, what was the problem then?
 
no I haven't, that might be it.
Fuse was fine, checked continuity.

It was the battery. I don't get the tc failure message on startup anymore. Volts on the old battery were fine, I guess it was cranking too slowly which caused that error.
 
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It's overload for just read and delete DFCs, but I'm used to it from my job.

or VCDS for EOBD functionality.
 
That follows anyway once you take off afterwards. 🤷🏻‍♂️
The reset adaptation is to initialise the ECU and the 10min idle is to re-learn the current state of the bike (adapt to environmentals, mods, etc.), like a clean slate. It's generally best practice doing this after any mods and it has made a difference on my previous KTM bikes by doing this.

Has anyone used any handheld OBD2 that can actually do this?
 
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