O2 sensor controller dongle

No
Its a euro 4 , checked the v5 document, registration dates can be misleading as bikes can sit unregistered for a while.

I'll have a think about the options, thanks.
No problem, no pressure from my side.
 
@bob @BeO @Satur9 @kevxtx What's the difference between O2 Sensor controller dongle and fuel mod? I see that one is using the signal from the O2 sensor and the other is using the signal from IAT sensor. Can we use both of them in parralel? Will there be a benefit using both of them? I see a lot of "gadgets" for this bike(rottweiler, fuelx, kevxtx, and so on), wich they all promise the same thing. Right now, i'm using the fuelx lite controller wich kinda fixes the low RPM riding, but low RPM riding is still a bit bumpy. I know that this question is just like the "wich oil should i use?" question, but...wich is the best mod/combo to totally improve the low RPM riding. For busy traffic, would be perfect to just let the bike in first gear, and slowly coasting with low speed without needing to pull the throttle.
 
@bob @BeO @Satur9 @kevxtx What's the difference between O2 Sensor controller dongle and fuel mod? I see that one is using the signal from the O2 sensor and the other is using the signal from IAT sensor. Can we use both of them in parralel? Will there be a benefit using both of them? I see a lot of "gadgets" for this bike(rottweiler, fuelx, kevxtx, and so on), wich they all promise the same thing. Right now, i'm using the fuelx lite controller wich kinda fixes the low RPM riding, but low RPM riding is still a bit bumpy. I know that this question is just like the "wich oil should i use?" question, but...wich is the best mod/combo to totally improve the low RPM riding. For busy traffic, would be perfect to just let the bike in first gear, and slowly coasting with low speed without needing to pull the throttle.
My 02 sensor controller offsets the live afr voltage from the 02 sensor, it sends a preset leaner offset value voltage to the ecu, the ecu responds by increasing the AFR in the closed loop only, closed loop area is 2% to 40% throttles, 2000rpm to 5000rpm, in the closed loop area the adjustable has no affects, any fuel added by this device it will just be taken away after a few firing cycles.

My iat adjustable fuel mod can only increase the afr in the open loop over 5000rpms an over 40% throttles, it works with an extra ambient temp sensor which keeps the offset in a finer range over varying ambient air temps an a adjustable resistor which allows for adjustments for different mods been added like free flow pipes, free flow air-boxes or filters. A Booster plug iat mod gives a fixed 6% offset value to the iat sensor, this can be to rich or to lean for some bikes an mods, I made my iat fuel mod offset variable so we can adjust the fuel mod to suite the bike mods.
 
@kevxtx Ok, thank you for your answer. So, basically, there's no need for the IAT adjustable fuel mod for my needs. I know that being a mono cylinder the power from the engine comes in pulses and the lack of a flywheel makes this engine a bit bumpy. What i'm trying to achieve is a smoother ride in first gear with no throttle applied. I'm thinking to increase the idle with aprox 200rpm if it's possible. I will order a O2 fuel mod from your website, even if i already have a FuelX installed, just to see if it behaves better. Thank you again for your answer. Have a great day man!
 
@kevxtx Ok, thank you for your answer. So, basically, there's no need for the IAT adjustable fuel mod for my needs. I know that being a mono cylinder the power from the engine comes in pulses and the lack of a flywheel makes this engine a bit bumpy. What i'm trying to achieve is a smoother ride in first gear with no throttle applied. I'm thinking to increase the idle with aprox 200rpm if it's possible. I will order a O2 fuel mod from your website, even if i already have a FuelX installed, just to see if it behaves better. Thank you again for your answer. Have a great day man!
No problem, the euro 5 ecu’s don't really need the adjustable iat mod even with an open pipe an filter, with the euro 4 ecu’s it helps when running open pipe an open air boxes.
 
Point of note: Don't do an ecu reset with a dongle fitted. Put sensors back to original. Carry out ecu reset. Then refit your dongle.
Can you elaborate, please? What ecu reset? The 15 min idle ecu reset(start the bike cold...let the bike run for 15 minutes, without touching anything, shut down the bike)? Because I just did that a few days ago 😋
 
Yip. That's the one. Especially if you have a non-standard air filter, air box mod etc. Doing the reset with the oem O2 sensor connected will set your air mixture to standard. (Around 15 to 1) Then refitting your dongle will give the richness/benefit you are looking for. (Nearer 14 to 1)
I have the Svartpilen 701 with K&N filter, air box lid removed & aperture enlargement, decat and straight through end can. Even with the dongle fitted the afr was over 16 to 1. I subsequently did as described above and now she pulls like a true thumper. What I had not expected is that the traction control now isn't as good. If only there was a tc reset?
 
@Brewster Same here....K&N Air filter, airbox lid removed. I did the reset procedure with FuelX lite installed. Didn`t notice too much difference...I will try the reset procedure with FuelX lite removed, and then reinstall it! @kevxtx Same thing applies to your O2 controller dongle? Do we need to make the reset with the dongle removed? Thank you fellas!
 
To be fair you should only need to have one tuning device or dongle fitted? If you do the ecu reset with standard sensors then the ecu will self tune the fuel ratio to 15 to 1. Which makes the engine run standard in spite of the air filter/box mods. So you only want to tweek the fuel ratio by the amount the dongle manufacturers came up with. In theory if you fit both an O2 sensor and an air box sensor dongle then it may run too rich? I use a Dim Sport Rapid Bike Easy which allows me to adjust the air fuel ratio just the way I want it. Before this I had a cheap ebay O2 dongle which did work but was a bit rich - my spark plugs were turning black with carbon. I have an afr guage which helps me adjust the aft to get the correct mixture. If you don't have an afr gauge then you could ask your local bike mechanic to check your afr?
 
In the 2nd half of this video you will see that the Rapid Bike Easy is set quite low to only tweek the mixture. If it is set to the maximum setting then the engine runs way too rich.
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Nice measurement setup.

For clarification this only works because you run a decat pipe. Otherwise the Lambda/AFR would be shifted by the catalytic conversion.
 
You are correct as such. If the cat is still on the bike then fitting the AFR meter before the cat is recommended.
This leads us to something else to consider....
The main reason for modern engines running lean is to make the exhaust gas extra hot which makes the catalytic converter work. The cat is not effective until it reaches its peak temperature. If you richen up the mixture then your exhaust gas will be cooler and the cat will not reach it's working temperature - so not function properly. In addition to this if your mixture is too rich it is not just your plugs that will carbon up, your cat will also start to clog up. This is why a lot of cars have a pair of O2 sensors - one before the cat (same as a motorbike) and one after the cat to check if it is doing it's job. For me losing the cat goes hand in hand with richening the mixture? The benefits of a dongle will be lost if the cat gets clogged up?
 
@Brewster Today I removed the Fuel X Lite controller, and did the 15 min. reset. After the reset i have reinstalled it, and went for a ride. Indeed, bike seems different, in a good way! Thank you!
 
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