My New Svart 401

An update on the forks, the new linear springs felt better but I was not getting anywhere near to the travel I wanted. I would like to use a lot of the 142mm of available travel with maybe 20-25mm spare before bottoming out in normal riding. I had 60mm (this is NOT including the 30mm at the bottom of the tubes that cannot be used) of travel not used after a 40mile ride. I contacted my suspension company who suggested that YSS recommends 180mm air gap for the KTM 390 Adv with these springs. I tried this when I first put the oil in but it was really low in the tubes. I had (stubbornly) used the volume of oil from the manual (440ml + - 5ml) less 20ml, this was causing the fork to hydro lock before reaching full stroke. I removed 60ml of oil today which equates to 150mm air gap. This I feel is a better place to start tuning from. The forks now seem to want to travel much more pumping them in the garage. When I get a chance to ride I will keep you all updated.
I think the 440mm from the manual is way too much oil, I thought the old springs were way stiff at the bottom of the stroke, I now know this feeling was the fork locking on the oil. Maybe that is why people have fork seal issues sometimes.
 
Jester1971 said:
An update on the forks, the new linear springs felt better but I was not getting anywhere near to the travel I wanted. I would like to use a lot of the 142mm of available travel with maybe 20-25mm spare before bottoming out in normal riding.
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What is normal riding for you? Off road? Sound like a mushy set up for road?
 
Normal riding is rural UK roads. Where I live the roads are in poor shape for the most part. There are some potholes, poorly repaired potholes, raised or depressed drain covers and a lot of sections that have just been tar and chipped so many times the roads are crowned really badly.
I have no intention on riding off road, ever.
I have only just started on finding an ideal suspension setup for my weight (95kg) and riding style. With a quarter of travel already spoken for in rider sag and leaving 1/5 of travel not normally used, I think 75-80mm of useable suspension would be sensible. Just one large but shallow pothole ridden through could still result in both a top out and bottom out of my forks.
The standard setup would probably have done a reasonable job if left alone and adjusted, but I want to find an ideal setup. The new springs are better suited to my weight, providing much less dive under breaking, meaning the front settles quicker. The standard springs had such a low soft part of the stroke that they would struggle to push up the preload damping applied to slow the mid and heavy part of the stroke. I still have 1/3 of rebound damping to increase if I need it and that gives me down to 30 clicks of compression to find tune at a ratio of 3-1 rebound - compression.
My testing will start at 8 rebound and 24 comp, I will almost certainly go more on the rebound straight away and increase the compression by 3 for each click of rebound as I go.
Just for info I have the rear shock on 10 preload and 5 clicks of rebound. I will almost certainly need a new shock spring or possibly even a complete shock but for now it works o.k.
I am going for a compliant feel with enough in reserve for every eventuality I encounter. That is what every single motorcycle owner would want from there ride, no?
one of the many reasons behind buying this bike was the adjustable suspension. I really enjoy the process of finding a good setup myself, I could have dropped the bike off at MCT suspension just up the road from me and given Darren wads of cash to sort it out, but that would remove the fun of learning how to sort the problem myself.

I just need some warmer weather and drier roads to get out testing now.
Sorry for long post, thanks for reading though, Jes.
 
Updated photos..
mods now complete, bar end mirrors, new exhaust, stickers removed and tail bag for tools as the space behind the battery is now used for FuelX lite and wiring. Modded airbox cover also fitted. Bike runs lovely now, I could hear the lumpyness smooth out in the first few seconds after start up. I started it and ran it for 15.30 mins without touching the throttle to let the ECU reset itself? I can feel the difference in u-turns and in 30mph traffic, also bike now lifts front wheel off the throttle if I let it. It now feels transformed from standard, I am so glad I did the FuelX lite, exhaust and slight airbox mod. Fingers crossed I have no issues.

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I may save up for a Nitron shock but will need to think hard if dropping £550 on it is worth the money. Forks are finally set up and are working really well, shock is coping on the settings for now. Some warmer weather and tarmac would be nice to get the suspension dialed for me.

Thanks for looking, Jes.
 
Jester1971 said:
Updated photos..
mods now complete, bar end mirrors, new exhaust, stickers removed and tail bag for tools as the space behind the battery is now used for FuelX lite and wiring. Modded airbox cover also fitted. Bike runs lovely now, I could hear the lumpyness smooth out in the first few seconds after start up. I started it and ran it for 15.30 mins without touching the throttle to let the ECU reset itself? I can feel the difference in u-turns and in 30mph traffic, also bike now lifts front wheel off the throttle if I let it. It now feels transformed from standard, I am so glad I did the FuelX lite, exhaust and slight airbox mod. Fingers crossed I have no issues.

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I may save up for a Nitron shock but will need to think hard if dropping £550 on it is worth the money. Forks are finally set up and are working really well, shock is coping on the settings for now. Some warmer weather and tarmac would be nice to get the suspension dialed for me.

Thanks for looking, Jes.
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Good work! What exactly does slight airbox mod mean?
 
Suspension testing update….
I am running 180mm air gap of 5w oil in the forks using 15 clicks of rebound and 12 of compression. Front dives a little under hard braking but settles quickly back again, ride is firmer than stock springs but not harsh at all.
I am using 10 (maximum) preload on the rear with 20 (almost all the way off, 1 click remaining) of rebound. Now I have had some miles to test in good dry conditions I conclude that the rear shock is way overdamped. Even at 20 clicks out the rear end raises to fast when shoving down on the seat with the bike stationary.
I have ordered a Nitron shock for my bike. I am hoping to sell the almost new (800miles) standard on somewhere like eBay once the Nitron is fitted.
The standard rear shock is ok now I have a setting I am happy with but the Nitron is rebuildable. The massive difference in the spring weight of the standard makes it so hard to get a setting between too hard and too soft. I know WP, KTM and Husqvarna have to make profits but from peoples opinions on forums around the world, the rear shock is many of their models weak point. This and the distinct lack of aftermarket (or WP) springs that fit has made my mind up.
I will update how the handling is after the shock is made and I’ve fitted it. Jes.
 
Thanks, sharing info, about suspension, and spring rates, fully agree. With my 100kg bottoming suspension too often. Are you planning to replace rear shock spring too?
 
Arny said:
Thanks, sharing info, about suspension, and spring rates, fully agree. With my 100kg bottoming suspension too often. Are you planning to replace rear shock spring too?
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No a complete new shock from Nitron.
I had looked into changing springs but there are no companies doing just a spring here in the uk. I found a company, Faulkners, that make springs. They make a 58.5mm internal spring in the length needed (180mm) for the WP rear shock. These come in various spring weights but I would be guessing on the actual weight needed for me. Also I would need some sort of spring compressor for bike shocks and may need to buy several spring to get it correct. There are a few people on forums that have changed springs on Husky and KTM rear shocks but the actual spring weight vary so much that I could not use their experience in a reliable way. There are 2 people on this forum who have changed springs, one is 95kg iirc and has fitted a 107nm spring the other is 75kg iirc and has fitted a 130nm spring. Both report great results!! Also people have fitted 1999-2002 Yamaha R6 rear shocks with modifications. I think this is a definite step backwards, the R6 had a 90nm spring weight! Any 1999-2002 shock would need a full rebuild then a new spring also making the price ridiculous for a 22 year old shock, even if you found a really nice one to begin with.
Nitron will make the shock with a spring weight specific to my 95kg. Only problem is the £560 price tag. When my shock arrives I will post the spring weight on here. My guess is it will be around 140-145nm, time will tell.

Thanks for reading, Jes.
 
Will be looking into soon, too. First would like to finish "hight" fit exhust, with de cat pipe, fule X combine with powertronic. To be fare could leave fully stock, but as it is weekend bike, it is more as a hobby .
Are you planning to measure sag before and after suspension upgrade?
 
Arny said:
Will be looking into soon, too. First would like to finish "hight" fit exhust, with de cat pipe, fule X combine with powertronic. To be fare could leave fully stock, but as it is weekend bike, it is more as a hobby .
Are you planning to measure sag before and after suspension upgrade?
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Yes of course, the sag is not far off with my rear preload on max (10 ramps) though it could be less. The front is spot on but I may need to adjust my rebound and compression a little once the shock is in.
 
New Nitron shock arrived today, a lot earlier than I expected too. the quality of the machining is superb, better than I thought it would be. I weighed the WP original at 3150g and this Nitron is 2035g, so a nice drop in weight aswell. I ordered for 90kg-95kg 'road' rider only weight as I will never carry a pillion.
The fit was simple and I have adjusted the preload to get me 7mm of static sag, 35mm rider sag. Using the included preload tool was much easier than using the standard 'C'spanner from the Husky tool kit. The Nitron one has a straight end and a 45degree end for using in tight spaces like the 401. Preload adjuster turns so smooth on the threads but time and the British weather will see how long the smoothness lasts. At least I should not need to move it again, for now, unless my weight changes.
The Rebound - compression adjuster has 24 nice positive clicks and is set at 12 out of the box, no tool is needed to turn this so should be easier for me to adjust mid ride with a quick stop off.
Anyway enough waffle, here are some pics....

Comes with a build sheet for servicing, a detailed manual with trouble shooting section to help set-up and some stickers.
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I went for the Titanium black spring instead of the Nitron blue.
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Lovely quality preload tool.
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800lb spring, so 140nm.
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When I get some nice weather I will take her for a ride and of course report back on how much, if any difference it makes.
Thanks for looking, Jes.
 
Looks like your project on your bike will be finished soon (y). Will be realy intresting to hear how will petrform on road, speed bums, pot holes, etc real road ride. How all will come together with suspension mod , and fuel x lite, airbox mod and exhust mod.
My expierience on standart suspension standart settings and shock preoad 5 cliks - smooth, comfortable for comuting, speed bums up 30 mph smooth, more than that botoming out suspeninon, more agressive raiding front end "dive" . If will not be raining tomorrown will give a go for sport suspension setup, to compare with standart one.
Worked out well for me - on sport setup, not so "squashy" feeling road more, speed bumps at 40mph not a problem, (road ones, not sharp ones in industrial estate area).
 
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Jester1971 said:
Hello all, I am new here and new to Husky bikes. I have recently bought a new Svartpilen 401 and I thought I'd share some things I've done and plan to do. I have stored Her away for winter here in the UK as they have just started salting the roads (I don't know what the UK would do if they had proper winters) and I am old and a fair weather biker.

So far....
Removed number plate bracket ( that is a lot of extra weight for the shock to move around) and fitted an R&G tail tidy whilst retaining the stock number plate light.
Removed the tank rack, though this may be going back on if I cannot find a suitable rear seat bag that I like.
Made an aluminium chain guard to replace massive plastic original.
Currently in the process of removing all of the unnecessary stickers on frame, tank, engine etc.
India's finest Rolon drive chain replaced with DID 'x'ring gold before it kills both sprockets.
Painted the day-glow yellow inserts on the radiator shrouds.
I have also reset the front brake caliper to centralise it and taken brake fluid from both F&R reservoirs, they were way to full causing drag on both brakes.
Shimmed the flappy clutch lever with brass shim.
Oil and filter-screens changed at 340 miles, early I know but wanted the old stuff out before storing for winter. Motul 7100 used as no Motorex near me.

Future planned work (subject to change daily as funds allow) may happen....
Fuel x lite.
Arrow slip on probably with Db killer removed, depending on noise.
DNA filter lid.
K&N main filter
Possibly bar end mirrors but I am on the fence about them at the moment, I don't mind the round ones too much.

Anyway enough waffle here are some pics (hopefully as I am not great with computers) of a mainly standard bike.


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Comments, advise welcomed, thank you for looking, Jes.
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Great work and you nailed it in some initial mods/changes. I posted a couple years ago of some of the work I did on a very similar vein as you. I tried/considered some mirror options but ended up simply bending the stock ones down a bit. Could be something to consider. Congrats and have a safe riding season!
 
Kriden said:
Great work and you nailed it in some initial mods/changes. I posted a couple years ago of some of the work I did on a very similar vein as you. I tried/considered some mirror options but ended up simply bending the stock ones down a bit. Could be something to consider. Congrats and have a safe riding season!
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Read your thread, 👍.
Thank you for reading, as for mirrors I have bar ends in the down position. I tend not to drive in town - city as I live in a very rural part of the UK but need mirrors for overtaking and tend to not rely on them. My bar ends look great as they remove the bits sticking out above the bar line. They were cheap from eBay and I had planned on replacing them with something nicer. They were just a test really but they work o.k. So will be staying.
 
Arny said:
Looks like your project on your bike will be finished soon (y). Will be realy intresting to hear how will petrform on road, speed bums, pot holes, etc real road ride. How all will come together with suspension mod , and fuel x lite, airbox mod and exhust mod.
My expierience on standart suspension standart settings and shock preoad 5 cliks - smooth, comfortable for comuting, speed bums up 30 mph smooth, more than that botoming out suspeninon, more agressive raiding front end "dive" . If will not be raining tomorrown will give a go for sport suspension setup, to compare with standart one.
Worked out well for me - on sport setup, not so "squashy" feeling road more, speed bumps at 40mph not a problem, (road ones, not sharp ones in industrial estate area).
Click to expand...
Standard suspension is very good for most situations, I agree. Being able to adjust the forks and shock is a great feature and one of the reasons I bought this bike. When I last rode a bike 15 years ago, WP suspension was a true upgrade, like £1500 minimum for a shock and forks. Obviously I should have done more research as the current entry level WP stuff we have on our bikes is, TBH rubbish compared with the WP stuff of old. That is progress and modern economics in the bike industry. Like Ohlins, their stuff is very nice but overpriced in the entry level end, you are paying for a name, a brand, a lifestyle choice.
Yes the WP shock is better than say an in house, no brand shock but still only just above entry level. I just feel the adjustments available and the standard spring weights do not do the chassis or the engine justice. I get it most people will probably never touch their suspension adjusters and ride the bike but the engineer in me loves to fiddle with mechanical things. Even making things slightly better is time and money well spent I believe. The confidence in a well set up, to your own weight and riding style bike is worth my time and cash.
I will only be truly happy when my bike is exactly how I want it to be.
Ride safe, Jes.
 
Just a couple more mods and some updated pics....

I made a very small alloy fly screen-ish thing, I just think the bit between the headlight and clock looks unfinished. I am not totally happy with my efforts but for now it will remain. Titanium grey Nitron shock blends in well I think.
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It bolts directly to the back of the clock unit with a couple of alloy brackets.
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Also made a stand riser-puck, now the bike does not sag under its own weight as much it was leaning too much whilst on the side stand for me. This simple bit of 12mm thick plastic with a circle milled in the center and 3 flanged bolts and nuts adds a little area to the tiny original.
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Angled in the up position to not get in the way.
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Thanks for looking, Jes.
 
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