Max RPM?

That's the interesting part, it looks like they don't mention that in the owners manual.

(btw, who breaks in a bike according to the owners manual?)
 
I guess I’m the odd duck here because I typically follow the owner’s manual for the break-in procedure. And I also use full throttle once the break-in period is done.
I’ll add that I performed my own first service this week. The bike used no oil and there was no significant goo/metal on the drain plug magnet.
 
Did you perform my favorite check?

The one where you yank and tug and jiggle and shake everything to make sure its free of manufacturer defects?
 
so over 9 k ish you will hear a wrangling and you wont like hear that too often if you like your head gasket etc ...happened to me twice or so
but i usually have 8-8.7k rpm easy on the dash during first 5 gears..with one front sprocket less ...401 act here realy different than 701 which has less max range i remember 10k or so as max on the 401 display
 
I heard from 690 tuners that the power between 8 and 9k+ is largely impacted by the airbox and exhaust on the bike... you kinda have to choose
 
Kinda, where I was going is that the shift point will be effected by which setup you have because where you want the revs to be after a shift will determine how much overrev you will need to use.
 
after first 3 month i just shift by feeling ....it was so much more mid range boost compare to 401 which goes wild at the beg range... but still did not drill the airbox yet...i will lurk for a spare lid that i can experiment with...401 made sense to go to another filter for sake and better intake stability . on 701 not, only remove or optimize lid is the best solution i guess..i remember one dude create a front intake pipe directly delegated into the air box .
regarding shift point is more like catching the snake in the box you can feel how messy the quickshifter works at low rpm. its like HQ want driver to go next level rpm
 
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Load cycles and heat cycles is what engine break-in is all about.
increase load & heat progressively with complete cool downs in between. Be sure to slowly warm up the engine with each progressive increase. You can usually end up attaining full load & RPMs well before the stated manufacture’s recommended mileage.
 
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