Husqvarna Cast Wheels (Husky factory accessory)

RobWCanada

RobWCanada

expert rider
Joined
Sep 12, 2021
Messages
156
Location
Toronto
Hey,

I picked these up a couple of months ago (ordered in March and didn't get til August!!! -- backordered on front brake rotor and rear wheel!).

Anyway, pretty good quality, easy install. I replaced my worn bits from my spoked wheels (some spacers looked worn out).

Bought new sprockets (rear and engine), new chain DID 520 VX3 Pro-Street (bought a 120 link -- cheaper, then made it to size 112 links).

Cut out the stock rubber filler valves and got some Puig Race Valves in silver (gold was not good, returned those...more orange). Silver looks good, but black would also be nice.

I mounted up some Michelin Road 6 tires and let me tell you, world of difference. The bike has better turn in, low speed turning is also better. I got these because I just feel that the bike honestly isn't that great for off road (I have tried -- bottomed out multiple times), and I think my offroading is maybe 5% of my trips. The Road 6's do okay on the gravel roads and forest roads, just take it easy.


RIMG_9291.jpeg

IMG_1202.jpeg


IMG_1200.jpeg

IMG_2544.jpeg

DID Chain after about 4000 km. Went on a trip out to Nova Scotia/PEI again. Rain every day for like 7-8 days! So yes, it’s dirty! The chain was amazing though. After about 1500 km, I made adjustment and didn’t need to touch it again until I got home. And that adjustment was very minimal. Original chain really is no good…
IMG_1595.jpeg

LOADED UP LOL:
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The windscreen is a Puig v2 windscreen for Svartpilen 401. Perfect fit imo. I tried the BAT version and it was horrible.

This one is the good one:

Page Not Found - Puig Hi-Tech Parts

Page Not Found - Puig Hi-Tech Parts
puig.tv puig.tv


The deflector is multi-adjustable deflector v2
puig.tv

Multi-adjustable Visor 2.0 Fixed with Screws - Puig Hi-Tech Parts

Multi-adjustable Visor 2.0 Fixed with Screws - Puig Hi-Tech Parts
puig.tv puig.tv

Worked well when you stream the air toward your helmet so it’s a smooth flow of air vs buffeted air.
 
RobWCanada said:
Hey,

I picked these up a couple of months ago (ordered in March and didn't get til August!!! -- backordered on front brake rotor and rear wheel!).

Anyway, pretty good quality, easy install. I replaced my worn bits from my spoked wheels (some spacers looked worn out).

Bought new sprockets (rear and engine), new chain DID 520 VX3 Pro-Street (bought a 120 link -- cheaper, then made it to size 112 links).

Cut out the stock rubber filler valves and got some Puig Race Valves in silver (gold was not good, returned those...more orange). Silver looks good, but black would also be nice.

I mounted up some Michelin Road 6 tires and let me tell you, world of difference. The bike has better turn in, low speed turning is also better. I got these because I just feel that the bike honestly isn't that great for off road (I have tried -- bottomed out multiple times), and I think my offroading is maybe 5% of my trips. The Road 6's do okay on the gravel roads and forest roads, just take it easy.


RView attachment 4721

View attachment 4722


View attachment 4723

View attachment 4724

DID Chain after about 4000 km. Went on a trip out to Nova Scotia/PEI again. Rain every day for like 7-8 days! So yes, it’s dirty! The chain was amazing though. After about 1500 km, I made adjustment and didn’t need to touch it again until I got home. And that adjustment was very minimal. Original chain really is no good…
View attachment 4725

LOADED UP LOL:
View attachment 4726

View attachment 4727
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip on the Michelin Road 6 tires.
 
Seattle401 said:
Hi, are the new wheels for tubeless tires, or are you still running tubes?
Click to expand...
Hey @Seattle401 ...yup, cast wheels are always tubeless. I mean if you wanted (in an emergency) I'm pretty sure you could put a tube in there.

Plus, Michelin advises that "Road 6" are not compatible with 'tubes'. Although, I believe some have used tubes anyway...but reading about this sounds like heat build up is the problem and then the tube fails.

But anyway, yes, tubeless and I have my tire-plug kit when I go out now. The main reason for getting the cast in the first place.


R
 
Great, thanks for the info. After a couple of punctures and damage from a bad tow/recovery service, I’m not too keen on my tubed svartpilen wheels. I like the spokes, and would explore the tubeless conversion, but I don’t think it’s possible on those wheels. Spoked, after market tubeless wheels are pretty pricey, so I might try those cast wheels too.
 
Seattle401 said:
Great, thanks for the info. After a couple of punctures and damage from a bad tow/recovery service, I’m not too keen on my tubed svartpilen wheels. I like the spokes, and would explore the tubeless conversion, but I don’t think it’s possible on those wheels. Spoked, after market tubeless wheels are pretty pricey, so I might try those cast wheels too.
Click to expand...
Well, I have no complaints so far. They've been good. I haven't smashed into any big pot holes or anything but they're holding up and I balanced them myself and the cast wheels have no vibes at all up to about 158km/hr. I don't go this fast usually...but New Brunswick has got some pretty straight, flat, new highway (but also some of the worst haha)

If you do order the kit, keep in mind that some parts don't come with the kit because Husqvarna assumes you want to re-use your old original parts that fit both wheels (spoked and cast). My front wheel spacers had a groove cut in them from the original wheels (sand grinding away maybe, dunno), but I got new ones as I didn't feel it was sealing to the bearing axle seal too well. So, if you want new components for your cast wheels (i.e. wheels spacers, rear brake rotor, rear spacers (although my rear spacers were okay)...then you gotta order those. Not expensive components at all though. I also got myself some new EBC double sintered brake pads for my new rotors (kit doesn't come with new pads either)...so they give new rotors, but no pads. I mean it would prolly be okay, but I figure another $60 for new pads all around what the hell.

  • EBC Double-H Sintered Brake Pads - FA606HH
  • EBC Double-H Sintered Brake Pads - FA213HH

I have found the pads to be good. There was a bit of harmonic weirdness when lightly trail-braking in the twisties but that just seemed to go away after a while. These are the double sintered recommendations for a 390 Duke. Now, if you go to EBC site, they'll tell u to get something else for the rear, perhaps an 'off-road' style for the 401...perhaps because it's a naked 'scrambler' style bike, I dunno. Also, organic style pads are another option...but like I said, I've had no issues with the ones above after some use.

It was a very simple, easy swap tbh.
 
RobWCanada said:
Well, I have no complaints so far. They've been good. I haven't smashed into any big pot holes or anything but they're holding up and I balanced them myself and the cast wheels have no vibes at all up to about 158km/hr. I don't go this fast usually...but New Brunswick has got some pretty straight, flat, new highway (but also some of the worst haha)

If you do order the kit, keep in mind that some parts don't come with the kit because Husqvarna assumes you want to re-use your old original parts that fit both wheels (spoked and cast). My front wheel spacers had a groove cut in them from the original wheels (sand grinding away maybe, dunno), but I got new ones as I didn't feel it was sealing to the bearing axle seal too well. So, if you want new components for your cast wheels (i.e. wheels spacers, rear brake rotor, rear spacers (although my rear spacers were okay)...then you gotta order those. Not expensive components at all though. I also got myself some new EBC double sintered brake pads for my new rotors (kit doesn't come with new pads either)...so they give new rotors, but no pads. I mean it would prolly be okay, but I figure another $60 for new pads all around what the hell.

  • EBC Double-H Sintered Brake Pads - FA606HH
  • EBC Double-H Sintered Brake Pads - FA213HH

I have found the pads to be good. There was a bit of harmonic weirdness when lightly trail-braking in the twisties but that just seemed to go away after a while. These are the double sintered recommendations for a 390 Duke. Now, if you go to EBC site, they'll tell u to get something else for the rear, perhaps an 'off-road' style for the 401...perhaps because it's a naked 'scrambler' style bike, I dunno. Also, organic style pads are another option...but like I said, I've had no issues with the ones above after some use.

It was a very simple, easy swap tbh.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the parts numbers for EBC pads. I don't think EBC has organic pads for 401s.

Road 6s not compatible with tubes. That's probably true for other tires too.

Don't forget this, tubeless conversion kit using rim tape. Similar things are available for bicycles and totally work.
https://www.amazon.com/Tubeless-VITPILEN-17×3-00MT-17×4-00MT-FR-VP4OUTEX/dp/B096TB4376
 
GeoKrpan said:
Thanks for the parts numbers for EBC pads. I don't think EBC has organic pads for 401s.

Road 6s not compatible with tubes. That's probably true for other tires too.

Don't forget this, tubeless conversion kit using rim tape. Similar things are available for bicycles and totally work.
https://www.amazon.com/Tubeless-VITPILEN-17×3-00MT-17×4-00MT-FR-VP4OUTEX/dp/B096TB4376
Click to expand...
Can you confirm that the stock svartpilen rims are able to be converted to tubeless using those conversion methods/tape/seal kits? I can’t find an accurate answer. But I’ve heard more than once than the stock rims are missing the correct groove/bead and are not convertible? I’ve yet to find anyone on any forum for the 401 that has said they’ve done the conversion. Have you?
 
Seattle401 said:
Can you confirm that the stock svartpilen rims are able to be converted to tubeless using those conversion methods/tape/seal kits? I can’t find an accurate answer. But I’ve heard more than once than the stock rims are missing the correct groove/bead and are not convertible? I’ve yet to find anyone on any forum for the 401 that has said they’ve done the conversion. Have you?
Click to expand...
I haven't seen anything at all about whether they work or not.

I noticed the kit doesn't use a sealant unlike for bicycles.

I just searched a found a video where it did not work.
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Seattle401 said:
Can you confirm that the stock svartpilen rims are able to be converted to tubeless using those conversion methods/tape/seal kits? I can’t find an accurate answer. But I’ve heard more than once than the stock rims are missing the correct groove/bead and are not convertible? I’ve yet to find anyone on any forum for the 401 that has said they’ve done the conversion. Have you?
Click to expand...

I have read on other forums that the bead is not the same on tubed vs tubeless. Not sure the diff, it's said the safety bead is not on a tubed wheel.

Whether it's a good idea or not, I dunno. Up to you. I didn't want the hassle of all that, so I just opted for the cast wheel set.


R
 
RobWCanada said:
I have read on other forums that the bead is not the same on tubed vs tubeless. Not sure the diff, it's said the safety bead is not on a tubed wheel.

Whether it's a good idea or not, I dunno. Up to you. I didn't want the hassle of all that, so I just opted for the cast wheel set.


R
Click to expand...
In the vid I posted the guy said he has run his other bike with the tubeless kit for five years without issue.
 
GeoKrpan said:
I don't change my own tires. I don't know if a shop would be willing to install the kit, otherwise I would try it.
Click to expand...
Haha, I would say even if you find a shop the labour and charge to you may be too high. But I dunno. They have to

- remove tires
- remove tubes
- install new style valve stem (maybe one u buy) cause with no tube you need a valve stem (no idea on the size — maybe 11 mm — that’s what the Husky cast wheels are)
- seal all the spokes, either with sealing tape for spoked wheels (whatever it’s called) or with some type of sealant…I’ve seen 3M 5200 used.
- remount the tires (old/new ones)
- definitely a tire balance

- and I would think a check/adjustment of spoke tension

Hey, I know why you wanna do it. Plugging the tire if it gets a flat. And I kinda like the look of the spokes on the 401, pain to clean through.

I have read that you can use tire sealant in a tube but I’ve never done it. Take a look at

Sahara Moto High Speed Tire Sealant​


R
 
RobWCanada said:
Haha, I would say even if you find a shop the labour and charge to you may be too high. But I dunno. They have to

- remove tires
- remove tubes
- install new style valve stem (maybe one u buy) cause with no tube you need a valve stem (no idea on the size — maybe 11 mm — that’s what the Husky cast wheels are)
- seal all the spokes, either with sealing tape for spoked wheels (whatever it’s called) or with some type of sealant…I’ve seen 3M 5200 used.
- remount the tires (old/new ones)
- definitely a tire balance

- and I would think a check/adjustment of spoke tension

Hey, I know why you wanna do it. Plugging the tire if it gets a flat. And I kinda like the look of the spokes on the 401, pain to clean through.

I have read that you can use tire sealant in a tube but I’ve never done it. Take a look at

Sahara Moto High Speed Tire Sealant​


R
Click to expand...

It would be wise to have the shop install the tubeless kit when new tires are needed.

Tire sealant in a tube is a good idea. It won't make a mess when new tires are needed.

I love the wire wheels on the 401s. A friend had some wire wheels custom made for his R1250. They cost a fortune and don't look any better than the 401 wheels.
 
Hey so I just installed these same wheels and tires and I’m having an issue with the rear wheel- there is some play between the sprocket carrier and the wheel hub, so like as I’m accelerating and decelerating I can feel the sprocket carrier kind of spinning faster or slower than the wheel causing the internals of the wheel to knock against each other. What did I do wrong? I ordered a left side rear wheel spacer because it doesn’t seem to have one, I hope this is it! But any thoughts?
 
Mmm, did you put in your old wheel dampeners? The rubber sprocket dampeners? I.E. part #16

IMG_7628.jpg

When you order (you may as well get new unless your old ones are real good) 90210059100 …they are very cheap (like $3 or $4 I think).

I’m pretty sure that’s what you’re describing…I am not sure what spacer you’re talking about as the kit came with the new spacer (#15) and for spacers that didn’t come with your old spacers should work (unless they’re worn out). Make sure you have all spacers as in that diagram. But side to side if you didn’t have the spacer I’m thinking you’d notice. As the swingarm would be way too far apart.

R
 
RobWCanada said:
Mmm, did you put in your old wheel dampeners? The rubber sprocket dampeners? I.E. part #16

View attachment 5214

When you order (you may as well get new unless your old ones are real good) 90210059100 …they are very cheap (like $3 or $4 I think).

I’m pretty sure that’s what you’re describing…I am not sure what spacer you’re talking about as the kit came with the new spacer (#15) and for spacers that didn’t come with your old spacers should work (unless they’re worn out). Make sure you have all spacers as in that diagram. But side to side if you didn’t have the spacer I’m thinking you’d notice. As the swingarm would be way too far apart.

R
Click to expand...
Thanks man. So I’m an idiot. I looked at the old wheel and found these bushings, explains why the wheel felt loosey-goosey :-/
 
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