Fender Eliminator 401

I have a technical question about LED bolts. The aftermarket LED turn signals we buy have resistors built into the wiring harness, but I do not see a resistor built into these LED bolt wiring. Will these LEDs not burn up without the resistor?
They will not burn up, they are 12v LED's. Resistors are only to make them stop hyperflashing.
 
With my limited tech. understanding, I was under the impression that the resistors should stop the flasher from making a hyperflash.
 
Je pense que la spécification est que la roue a environ 150 mm de débattement?
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Le débattement est à mesurer sur la verticale, pas suivant le rayon de la roue, ce qui permet de diminuer l'angle de la plaque d'immatriculation. A savoir que lorsque la moto est sur ses roues, l'enfoncement de la suspension arrière est déjà d'environ 15 mm, 50 mm pilote assis sur la moto à l'arrêt. J'ai un modèle neuf 2021 depuis peu, je vais faire l'opération de transfère de la plaque d'immatriculation sous le feu arrière par moi même. Pour vérifier s'il y a interférence plaque-pneu lorsque la suspension est complétement enfoncées, je pense faire une test statique en comprimant la suspension avec une sangle à cliquet fixée entre le bars oscillant et le cadre arrière. Si le pneu touche la plaque, du fait du sens de rotation de la roue, la plaque sera avalée.

Philip, please include English translations for your posts. Everyone is welcome here, but we do require English posts so we have a consistent readability on the forum. - The Admin
Thanks to Dr. Shifty for the translation, repeated here:
"The travel is to be measured vertically, not along the radius of the wheel, which makes it possible to reduce the angle of the license plate. Namely that when the motorcycle is on its wheels, the depression of the rear suspension is already about 15 mm, 50 mm pilot seated on the motorcycle when stationary. I have a new 2021 model recently, I will do the operation of transferring the license plate under the rear light by myself. To check for plate-tire interference when the suspension is fully depressed, I plan to do a static test by compressing the suspension with a ratchet strap attached between the swing bars and the rear frame. If the tire touches the plate, due to the direction of rotation of the wheel, the plate will be swallowed."
 

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Translation:
The travel is to be measured vertically, not according to the radius of the wheel, which makes it possible to reduce the angle of the license plate. Namely that when the motorcycle is on its wheels, the depress of the rear suspension is already about 15 mm, 50 mm rider sitting on the motorcycle stationary. I have a new 2021 model recently, I will do the operation of transferring the license plate under the taillight by myself. To check if there is plate-tire interference when the suspension is fully depressed, I plan to do a static test by compressing the suspension with a ratchet strap attached between the oscillating bars and the rear frame. If the tire touches the plate, due to the direction of rotation of the wheel, the plate will be swallowed.
 
"The travel is to be measured vertically, not along the radius of the wheel, which makes it possible to reduce the angle of the license plate. Namely that when the motorcycle is on its wheels, the depression of the rear suspension is already about 15 mm, 50 mm pilot seated on the motorcycle when stationary. I have a new 2021 model recently, I will do the operation of transferring the license plate under the rear light by myself. To check for plate-tire interference when the suspension is fully depressed, I plan to do a static test by compressing the suspension with a ratchet strap attached between the swing bars and the rear frame. If the tire touches the plate, due to the direction of rotation of the wheel, the plate will be swallowed."
Be careful with that ratchet strap, sounds like a lot of force.
You are correct that the travel should be measured vertically. But also remember the license plate will flex on bumps. My goal was to have plenty of clearance.
Soyez prudent avec cette sangle à cliquet, cela ressemble à beaucoup de force.
Vous avez raison de dire que la course doit être mesurée verticalement. Mais rappelez-vous également que la plaque d'immatriculation fléchira sur les bosses. Mon objectif était d'avoir beaucoup de dégagement.
 
I did this one time...With the bike parked, I used a video camera and bottomed out the suspension with use of my weight (similar to jumping up and down, except on the bike).

Then it is easy to check how "close" things get in a dynamic by viewing the recorded video afterwords.
 
Translation:
The travel is to be measured vertically, not according to the radius of the wheel, which makes it possible to reduce the angle of the license plate. Namely that when the motorcycle is on its wheels, the depress of the rear suspension is already about 15 mm, 50 mm rider sitting on the motorcycle stationary. I have a new 2021 model recently, I will do the operation of transferring the license plate under the taillight by myself. To check if there is plate-tire interference when the suspension is fully depressed, I plan to do a static test by compressing the suspension with a ratchet strap attached between the oscillating bars and the rear frame. If the tire touches the plate, due to the direction of rotation of the wheel, the plate will be swallowed.
If you want to make sure the tire won't hit the plate, hold a string from the swing arm pivot to the farthest end of the tire and move that end to draw an arch. That should pretty much give you a decent preview of where you should be.
 
Je vais prendre en compte vos remarques et posterai des photos de ce que je vais faire. C'est toujours un plaisir de réaliser par soi même!
J'aime bien cette réalisation pour la plaque d'immatriculation et pour le déplacement du pot d'échappement. Malheureusement la vue de l'autre coté du pot est moins intéressante.

I will take your comments into account and will post pictures of what I will do. It's always a pleasure to realize yourself!
I like this realization for the license plate and for moving the exhaust. Unfortunately the view from the other side of the pot is less interesting.
 

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Je vais prendre en compte vos remarques et posterai des photos de ce que je vais faire. C'est toujours un plaisir de réaliser pas soi même!
J'aime bien cette réalisation pour la plaque d'immatriculation et pour le déplacement du pot d'échappement. Malheureusement la vue de l'autre coté du pot est moins intéressante.
This is an international forum, please post in English.
 
I made a first version of my license plate holder, fixed on the turn signal boxes.
this is inconclusive as the maximum suspension travel would have been around 110-120mm.
On the second version, the plate is moved back, still fixed on the boxes, it is satisfactory, the travel of the suspension should be 140 to 150 mm. I reused the original plate light and reflector. I haven't ridden the bike yet but I think the support will withstand the vibrations.
I also removed the passenger footpegs.
Next work, installation of a high handlebar (on original vitpilen triple clamp), replacement of the exhaust pipe to pass it on the side, like the 2018/19 models, I find this assembly much smarter and manufacture of a discreet luggage rack that will use part of the rear seat
 

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Here is my home solution after finding all the commercial stuff expensive and lacking in esthetics (in my humble opinion).
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No permanent alteration required.
No hardware beyond about 1/2 sq ft of .050 aluminum sheet.
Attached solely and securely at the signal light stems and secured with same bolts
No exposed wiring, uses all the original signal mounting pieces.

My big investment was time in poster board modeling and getting the 90 degree bends and holes in just the right place.
About a day and half all together.
I'm retired, so nothing more fun to do except maybe ride.

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Here are all the parts involved
 
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Here’s my homemade solution that attaches to the blinker stalks and weighs next to nothing. I designed a flat bracket and had it laser cut at SendCutSend.com. I bent the two tabs, loosened the blinker nuts, slipped the bracket over the wires and reinstalled the nuts. Didn’t even have to disconnect the blinker wiring. There are also two small spacers (also laser cut) to align the bracket correctly. The only mod is a small notch needs to be cut out of each plastic cover for the bracket to exit. The plate is well illuminated by the taillight, and is adjustable up & down a bit.

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Here’s my homemade solution that attaches to the blinker stalks and weighs next to nothing. I designed a flat bracket and had it laser cut at SendCutSend.com. I bent the two tabs, loosened the blinker nuts, slipped the bracket over the wires and reinstalled the nuts. Didn’t even have to disconnect the blinker wiring. There are also two small spacers (also laser cut) to align the bracket correctly. The only mod is a small notch needs to be cut out of each plastic cover for the bracket to exit. The plate is well illuminated by the taillight, and is adjustable up & down a bit.

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Very clean. Nice work. How much did SendCutSend charge you to cut that piece?

Also, I know you mentioned the bracket is adjustable but is there something locking it in at that angle? Or is it just relying on friction from the blinker nuts?
 
Very clean. Nice work. How much did SendCutSend charge you to cut that piece?

Also, I know you mentioned the bracket is adjustable but is there something locking it in at that angle? Or is it just relying on friction from the blinker nuts?
The bracket and washers cost about $13 total. They’d cost less in volume too. Once tightened, the blinker nuts are more than tight enough to hold the plate where you put it. It’s very rigid.
 
Finally made those -
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3D printed in engineering grade resin, in dark grey. If anyone wants it, DM me, $25 shipped to the lower 48 US states.
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