Exhaust Retrofit

xrayruester

contributing rider
Joined
Apr 24, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Spring Grove, PA
Hi, so first post on here but I've been lurking for a little bit.

Bought my '20 Svart 401 in June of last year and have loved it since. Everything about the '20 bikes seems to be an upgrade over the '18-'19 except for the exhaust routing. So I ended up buying some parts from a Duke 390 and swapped over the exhaust.

It's a pretty straight forward process for removal. It took about 30mins to do. Biggest hangup was removing the chamber. The lower mounting point is snug and took a tap with a rubber mallet to release.

Install is a bit more challenging and still need to figure some things out. The charcoal canister solenoid thing needs to be relocated. I ended up tucking this up and behind the rear shock. I'd like to find a more permanent solution to the current one. Possibly make a mount rather than using zipties or see if the one from the 18-19 bikes can be swapped over, doubtful on that. A few rubber lines need to be moved. The one from the canister needs to be moved to the outside of the frame and the drain line needs to be moved infront of the rear brake res. I used cheap Duke 390 muffler from Amazon and it's about 3" too far back. The plan is to drill and tap into the rear footpeg bracket, but I may see what else I can come up with.

Things to note. You'll need an entire exhaust from an 18-19 Duke or Svart/Vit. Nothing swaps over. I used a Compwerks chamber delete and the cheap muffler as previously mentioned. Currently a bit too loud for my liking so if someone with an 18-19 wants to swap their chamber straight up for the chamber delete let me know. The 20s may have a slightly different rear shock geometry. The cat is extremely close to the shock, though when compressed it moves further away.

I'm also going to need to figure out a new skid plate. Bike currently doesn't have one and leaving the original one sort of defeats the purpose of rerouting.
 

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Look pretty decent.

I had that same issue at one point with my rear shock... and ended up with some melted paint...
I would rotate the header a bit counter clockwise, which should get it away from the generator cover and allow you to rotate the cat to bring it away from the shock and at the same time put the werkes pipe where it should be to fit the rubber grommet and aluminum bushings.

And which cheap muffler did you end up with?
 
Thanks for the info, I'll loosen everything up and see if I can clock it a little better. The exhaust I'm using is a Musarri GP for a Duke 390. They're about $200 usually, but I found one for a couple bucks off. It's not a bad looking exhaust, but the mounting tab is about 2-3" off. I'm not getting rid of the passanger pegs so I'm going to drill and tap the passanger mount, and then throw a thick rubber washer in between.
 
It's not a bad looking exhaust, but the mounting tab is about 2-3" off. I'm not getting rid of the passanger pegs so I'm going to drill and tap the passanger mount, and then throw a thick rubber washer in between.
What about making an extension for the stock holder, or re-welding the bracket on the can?

I would be concerned about the stability of the cast aluminum peg holders when extra drilling is involved.
 
What about making an extension for the stock holder, or re-welding the bracket on the can?

I would be concerned about the stability of the cast aluminum peg holders when extra drilling is involved.
I don't think there will be an issue. The amount of metal that will be removed will be pretty insignificant all things considered. Plus it will be after the passanger pegs so no weight will be directly on that area. I am also planning on running a nut on top of the bolt as well. That way it has some extra support and should cause less stress on the new hole.

I thought about a bracket, but I'm not sure if there will be enough room to fit it under the passenger peg bracket. I was also thinking of making a clamp. It's only purpose is to hold the muffler in place. Could be an option.

Welding the can is possible, but by far the most expensive and time consuming process. It will also move the tab way down on the can. The best option is to honestly get a muffler with an adjustable band.
 
This is a great thread, thank you xraytruester! I've been considering doing the same project.
You might consider deleting the charcoal canniter... there are ways to reduce the amount of plumbing the bike has including some kind of bypass for the valve. I havent looked all that up yet though...
 
This is a great thread, thank you xraytruester! I've been considering doing the same project.
You might consider deleting the charcoal canniter... there are ways to reduce the amount of plumbing the bike has including some kind of bypass for the valve. I havent looked all that up yet though...
Thanks! I've seen the canister delete mods before. I'll probably start looking through some 390 forums and see what they've come up with. Probably would be easier to swap to an aftermarket ECU, but I don't think it maintains the quick shift on the 20 models.
 
I thought about a bracket, but I'm not sure if there will be enough room to fit it under the passenger peg bracket. I was also thinking of making a clamp. It's only purpose is to hold the muffler in place. Could be an option

Many after market exhaust do it the same way, just a piece of metal cut to size with a 90° bend and screwed in the original holes (Like the pics)

20210513_200441.jpg20210513_195809.jpg
 
Just be conscious of the screw length, that metal is soft...
Absolutely, definitely going to try using a bit of angle iron and skip the oem mount for now. I'm thinking this will be the cheapest and most elegant solution. I was stuck on making the stock mount work. Didn't even cross my mind to just make something else. No tapping and can easily take it back to stock.
 
Why do you guys think they decided to switch the '18-19 model where the exhaust goes through the chasis vs the '20-22 models where they decided to just loop it under the bike instead? Do you think it is because of heating issues where maybe the pipe is heading up the engine in the '18-19 models? Anyone here with the '18-19 models wanna chime in?
 
I have a vit, so I don't care about ground clearance like a svart owner does, but I saw it as a huge improvement to get the heat away from the legs. It has to help with wiring lifetime as well considering how packed it is with wiring right on top of the motor.
 
I definitely could see how the '20-22 would help with heat dissipation but I can't deny that the '18-19 models look a lot cleaner running the exhaust through the frame. I have a 2022 Svartpilen 401 and plan on doing a custom titanium straight pipe. It is still in the planning process but I am having a hard time deciding if I should just run it through the frame like the older models or just keep it as is and run the pipes underneath the engine.
 
Why do you guys think they decided to switch the '18-19 model where the exhaust goes through the chasis vs the '20-22 models where they decided to just loop it under the bike instead? Do you think it is because of heating issues where maybe the pipe is heading up the engine in the '18-19 models? Anyone here with the '18-19 models wanna chime in?
I have a theory, that the reasoning is more nefarious, that routing the exhaust under was cheaper/made for easier(faster=cheaper) assembly, in time saved and in materials costs (heat shielding and more bends to the pipe)... maybe when production was moved from austria to india the indian plant was less adept.

This is something I have been very curious about. Why the change? because on a svart atleast, when youre trying to market it as a "neo retro scrambler" it would seem that there would be no gains that would justify the losses in clearance.

Does anyone know if there is a definitive thread 0or right up anywhere on the retrofit that answers all the questions?
 
Does anyone know if there is a definitive thread 0or right up anywhere on the retrofit that answers all the questions?
If I understand you correctly. There seems to be a solution. I purchased these parts for about $200. But there are questions about the Chinese product. I haven't installed this exhaust yet (in spring). Therefore I cannot recommend it. I think there will be problems during installation. But after installation I will write everything in detail.
 

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