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130km/h?!? OK, you must definitely have some Viking genes... 😁
Not for an extended long period of time, but 200km/h is quite "normal" here; even with the 801 without any wind protection; welcome to Germany...😉
 
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Tom said:
130km/h?!? OK, you must definitely have some Viking genes!?! 😁
Not for an extended long period of time, but 200km/h is quite "normal" here; even with the 801 without any wind protection; welcome to Germany...😉
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And only 12 points on my driver's license... 😭
 
Not one single point here...
Maybe sometimes it's helpful to know where you should behave; and where it's "OK" to be a hooligan... ;)
 
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Well Tom lost a plate with the aluminum mount failing from a 1200 SDR. Good luck, hope it doesn't come off and damage someone's car or worse.
 
toast449 said:
Well Tom lost a plate with the aluminum mount failing from a 1200 SDR. Good luck, hope it doesn't come off and damage someone's car or worse.
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Yes, but the 1290 plate broke because of a design-flaw / fabrication failure; with the quite thick printed base plate I would assume that it should work quite similar to the 3mm aluminum base plate,
 
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toast449 said:
There is no way I would trust a plastic base plate for what is effectively a sail attached to the back of a hot, vibrating mass moving at 100 kph.
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3D prints can handle immense forces when engineered correctly.
In Vaiks case there isnt much to be done. I would add a thin piece of aluminum or a layer of carbon fiber in between the base plate and the motorcycle, but thats about it of what you can do to strengthen the part.
 
Okay! The project is risky, but still less risky than driving at 200 km/h on the motorway!
The base and angle corrector are printed in ASA.
In the end, I'm not going to recook them because with the reduction I'll lose the screw placement.
If I have time to paint them this week, then maybe I'll have time to do a road test this weekend!
🤞
For those who want it, the STL or the SKP is available upon request.
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The two holes to attach the aluminum mount might indeed be a weak link; if it would be me, I would add two slightly recessed big washers (made from steel) underneath the countersunk screws.

Edit: the head of a standard M6 countersunk screw is 12mm; the inner diameter of a M10 washer is 10,5mm; it should work fine.

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