Clutch not disengaging

[Vintage Veloce]

Do the top bleeder valve at the master first. Try tilting the handle bar a bit each way, whatever to get all the bubbles out of the top. Sometimes you need to rotate the master cylinder on the bar. The idea is to get the bleeder valve above the rest of the stuff so the bubbles go up to it. Some gentle tapping on the cylinder can't hurt either.
Once the master seems very clear, then pump down to the bottom bleeder at the slave. Remember, when bleeding the slave, that bubbles will try and rise back up the clutch line... you need to keep the fluid flowing down to the slave cylinder. (This is why reverse bleeding often helps, but it usually is possible to do it the normal way.)
You might have to go back and forth between the top and bottom bleed valves.

 

[OKVitpilen]

Thanks for the help, fellas!

Question: When I push on the shift lever down to the point it would shift, I can feel something hitting it really fast like something is spinning and the lever is now in the way trying to push it out of the way. If I slap it down with my foot quickly, it will shift into grear.... It's always done this but now it's a lot more pronounced after the slave cylinder replacement. This doesn't seem normal to me but maybe it is? I'm also failing to understand how replacing the slave cylinder would make this problem worse.

 

[Max Kool]

The only thing I can think of is having a little air in the line, making the clutch not disengage all the way.

 

[Vintage Veloce]

Thanks for the help, fellas!

Question: When I push on the shift lever down to the point it would shift, I can feel something hitting it really fast like something is spinning and the lever is now in the way trying to push it out of the way. If I slap it down with my foot quickly, it will shift into grear.... It's always done this but now it's a lot more pronounced after the slave cylinder replacement. This doesn't seem normal to me but maybe it is? I'm also failing to understand how replacing the slave cylinder would make this problem worse.

Between all the gears up and down?
Does it feel like this when the engine is not running and the motorcycle is stopped? (nothing is spinning)
Does it happen if you pull in the clutch, wait 30 seconds and then shift? (Gives the gears time to slow down.)
Does it still happen when the engine is warm? (Clutch drags less in warm oil).

How gearbox shifting works:

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[SvePil]

Thanks for the help, fellas!

Question: When I push on the shift lever down to the point it would shift, I can feel something hitting it really fast like something is spinning and the lever is now in the way trying to push it out of the way. If I slap it down with my foot quickly, it will shift into grear.... It's always done this but now it's a lot more pronounced after the slave cylinder replacement. This doesn't seem normal to me but maybe it is? I'm also failing to understand how replacing the slave cylinder would make this problem worse.

I would say that klonky gearboxes on motorcycles are more or less something to live with. At least on the bikes i have owned. But i think your hydraulics need more love. Keep bleeding it

 

[OKVitpilen]

Between all the gears up and down?
Does it feel like this when the engine is not running and the motorcycle is stopped? (nothing is spinning)
Does it happen if you pull in the clutch, wait 30 seconds and then shift? (Gives the gears time to slow down.)
Does it still happen when the engine is warm? (Clutch drags less in warm oil).

I'll go through these steps tonight to find out.

 

[OKVitpilen]

I would say that klonky gearboxes on motorcycles are more or less something to live with. At least on the bikes i have owned. But i think your hydraulics need more love. Keep bleeding it.

I may do this again tonight... It'll be a new right before bed-time ritual. hah

 

[svartron]

There is still air in the system and the clutch does not fully disengage.

I always leave the cap of the master cylinder on when I disconnect the old slave cylinder.
Like that no air will enter the brake line. The new slave cylinder I fill with brake fluid and „bleed“ it by pushing the piston slightly with my thumb. When no more air bubbles come up I connect the slave cylinder to the brake line. Like that there is almost no air trapped. After that a refill of the master and a standard bleeding is enough. This procedure worked well on my SP and many other bikes.

When done in an other way and more air has entered the system, perfect bleeding can be difficult.
Often you need to connect a vacuum bleeding tool to the bleeder nipple. You have to be fast and a second person needs to refill the reservoir in master cylinder when bleeding. This will suck out all the trapped air.

An other DIY option like mentioned before ist the reverse bleeding with a large syringe. You push bubble free brake fluid from the bleed nipple of the slave cylinder in to the system. For the air in the brake line it is much easier to travel upward. A helper would be good to check for bubbles in the master reservoir and that it does not overflow.

If I’m right the Vitpilen has also a bleed nipple on the master cylinder and requires a final step.
Push the clutch lever fully and hold it in this position. Open the bleeding screw. You might even hear a little air escaping.

Good luck!

 

[Max Kool]

Good info @svartron

 

[OKVitpilen]

I just bled it again and test rode it! It's fixed! I just needed to bleed it more. I took nearly the whole bottle and I learned a lot! Never have done that before!

The gear shifting is butter compared to before... It's super easy... So yeah, air in your clutch line can make your gearbox feel like total shit. LOL Good to know!

Thanks for all the helpful posts!

 

[mikochu]

Did you bleed both nipples, on the slave and on the master cylinder? A small ait bubble can easily get trapped in the master cylinder…

Max, where is the nipple on the master cylinder?

 

[Max Kool]

Vit or Svart? Not sure if Svartpilen has one.

 

[mikochu]

Vit or Svart? Not sure if Svartpilen has one.

Ahhhhh. I've got a Svart. That makes sense now. No worries.

I just finished installing my 15t front sprocket and reverse-bled the clutch again. Still feels the same. I'll leave it alone for now.

 

[svartron]

The lucky Vit owners got radial Magura HC1 brake and clutch pump.
The poor Svart owners got a Magura clutch and a Brembo brake pump.

 

[Max Kool]

Brembo radial brake pump actually.

Don’t be envious though, I had to repair the HC1 clutch pump already.

 

[svartron]

You’re right, but it makes me still a little jealous.

 

[OKVitpilen]

Ahhhhh. I've got a Svart. That makes sense now. No worries.

I just finished installing my 15t front sprocket and reverse-bled the clutch again. Still feels the same. I'll leave it alone for now.

This is my next project. I got the 15t front sprocket and will attempt it in the next week after I find good directions on how to do it. Not sure I have the necessary tools. We'll see!

 

[mikochu]

This is my next project. I got the 15t front sprocket and will attempt it in the next week after I find good directions on how to do it. Not sure I have the necessary tools. We'll see!

Off the top of my head...

Tools I used:
Rear stand
Breaker bar (3/4")
Socket wrenches (1/4", 3/4")
3"-6" socket extensions
32mm socket (rear axle nut)
27mm socket (sprocket nut)
8mm socket (chain/sprocket guard)
Flat head screw driver/pry tool (lock washer on sprocket nut)
Mallet (for lock washer)
10mm box wrench (axle chain adjuster locking nut)
12mm box wrench (axle chain adjuster)

Put the bike on secure flat surface and prop up the rear with the rear stand.

Undo the sprocket cover with the 8mm socket wrench and extension.

Undo the sprocket/chain guard.

Unfold lock washer on the sprocket with the flat head and mallet.

Get the breaker bar ready with the 27mm socket and jump on the bike. Holding the rear brake, break the the sprocket nut loose.

With the breaker bar and 32mm socket, break the rear axle nut loose, but no need to remove it or the fender.

Loosen the 12mm lock nuts on the axle chain adjusters, then loosen the 10mm bolts down to give you room the move the axle forward enough to remove the front sprocket.

Swap sprockets and follow the instructions in reverse to get everything back together.

Chain slack is 5mm, I believe.


Edit: I was writing this while waiting for my wife to meet me at our new house.

Torque specs:
27mm sprocket nut 100N⋅m
32mm rear axle nut 90N⋅m
8mm bolts 10N⋅m

 

[Max Kool]

5mm from the underside of the swingarm, yep