Clutch not disengaging

Clutch slave cylinder: the new piston and seal is just slightly better than the old one and many of them fail again. There is no real solution from Husqvarna. If you want to be on the safe side, buy an aftermarket one.

Battery: the original battery is not a quality item. Many our bikes have been standing in the dealers showroom for long time until they get sold. Do they disconnect the battery and charge them regularly? Probably not and several month of very low charge make your battery unreliable. Check the battery with a professional battery tester and it will show much less than the 10 Ah. An lithium battery as an replacement is not a bad idea. It is a little less high and now you’re able to fit the original tools nicely in there.
 
svartron said:
Clutch slave cylinder: the new piston and seal is just slightly better than the old one and many of them fail again. There is no real solution from Husqvarna. If you want to be on the safe side, buy an aftermarket one.

Battery: the original battery is not a quality item. Many our bikes have been standing in the dealers showroom for long time until they get sold. Do they disconnect the battery and charge them regularly? Probably not and several month of very low charge make your battery unreliable. Check the battery with a professional battery tester and it will show much less than the 10 Ah. An lithium battery as an replacement is not a bad idea. It is a little less high and now you’re able to fit the original tools nicely in there.
Click to expand...
yeah i will install one as soon i find a good import dealership that had rekluse cylinder ...

told the mechanic i do not have to look to know that this battery is made in 2018 delivered in end of 2019 installed in early 2020
and parked 10 month so they charged me a new one up overnight on guarantee . no probs
i normally never charge my bikes just drive them fit...:)

i saw some members of an German husky forum , had installed smaller LI batterys and where able to check status linked via bluetooth - on smartphone..
.so in case display flacks or tcs/can bus or other communication issues showed up could be all tracked and displayed how distribution /consumption is at that moment gabs & flaps under 10ah or so -

guess have to import this one as well...
did you got youre aftermarket slave cylinder from switzerland>=?or EU
 
I ordered the clutch slave cylinder from Oberon. A Rekluse or SiguTech will work as well.
For the battery you can measure the voltage or a bluetooth app may tell you how much the voltage drops when push the starter button. My opinion is that the Magura/Brembo clutch slave cylinders as the Yuasa battery are crap and should better be replaced by quality aftermarket items for reliability.
 
yeah those Yuasa feels clumpsy with 3.2 kilo need to upgrade that at one point,

Kapazität Ah (10 Std.)8.6
Kapazität Ah (20 Std.)9.1
 
Hopefully, my oberon arrives here today... Ordered on April 30th.

Still have the stock battery, I need to check that out and make sure it's still good.
 

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Okay, cool! I'm done and drove it around, I have to pull the clutch all the way in and if I just barely let out, that's pretty much the friction zone. I bled it pretty good but maybe not enough?
 
I did what this guy did. Took cap off, sucked out fluid, filled it and opened the valve, pulled clutch, closed valve, released... Did that 20+ times and filled reservoir as it emptied.
 
I bled it and drove it around for an hour and didn't have any issues. The friction zone is a lot closer to the grip than it used to be. I'm going to see if I can adjust somehow. I've also noticed it seems harder to shift sometimes. Any reason why? Bubbles in the line?
 
OKVitpilen said:
I bled it and drove it around for an hour and didn't have any issues. The friction zone is a lot closer to the grip than it used to be. I'm going to see if I can adjust somehow. I've also noticed it seems harder to shift sometimes. Any reason why? Bubbles in the line?
Click to expand...
If your friction zone is close to the handlebar or that your clutch disengage late in the clutch lever travel means that your clutch plates are so close that they causing drag. I can cause jerky shifts.

il would have looked into get rid of more air in the clutch system. By down - upp method.

Hope you sort it out.
 
I agree with SvePil, clutches can be hard to bleed thoroughly. You have to think like a bubble,where could it hide, how to flush it out.
If often takes me a LOT of brake fluid to flush all the bubbles out.
Flushing both directions can help too.

On clutch drag:
Do you have a rear wheel stand? Make sure with the engine off and in gear and the clutch lever pulled in that you can easily spin the rear wheel.
 
Did you bleed both nipples, on the slave and on the master cylinder? A small ait bubble can easily get trapped in the master cylinder…
 
Thanks for all the help guys... As you can tell, I have TONS to learn... I didn't know there was a master nipple somewhere. I'm going to bleed it more here in a bit and will doing the things mentioned here.
 
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