Cheapnnasty SAS/EVAP delete.

K

KiwiKev

fast rider
Joined
Oct 31, 2020
Messages
51
Location
Christchurch, New Zealand
Heya team,
I did this more to save waiting for shipping than saving cash but now that cash can go towards some motogadget blaze pins :) ,also I had some time on my hands and it was fun to tinker.

I bought some 2.2 kohm by 1/2 watt resistors, as per SvePil's post on this forum (he suggested 1/4 watt which I couldn't get, cost was around $1 for a pack of 8.
Removed all the crap as per the online vids.
Bent the resistors as shown, then inserted them into the relevant plugs. They felt nice and tight and I'm confident its a nice positive connection. The slightly long pointy tails can then bend around the sides of the pug.
I had bought some heat shrink but don't have a heat gun and it was a touch windy to do it with a cigarette lighter, so I then just taped them with black electrical tape. This felt a bit nasty but I feel it'll seal as well as anything and will be sweet tucked under the seat, maybe I'll throw some heatshrink on top one day......
There was a plastic plug on the bottom of one of the removed hoses, this went into the trimmed back hose from the airbox. Currently the metal plate and hose from the head are just temporarily bunged up, I'll sort this when I'm back at my Fabrication shop next week.

I had my whole tank off during the process, as I also had to tidy away kev's o2 mod. This gave me extra room to play and I managed to move around a fair bit wiring from inside the frame on the right rear of engine. It looks way tidier and shows off that beautiful trellis frame a lot more.

She's running well with no fault codes.
 

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Looking much cleaner!
I thought I had a pic of one of the funny little gadgets I relocated from this area: Small black roundish/squareish box, wire going in and a study little open ended tube hanging out the bottom.
What is it? Temp sensor? Altitude?Mines now tucked up under the tank, still with the tube pointing down, I hope it's not going to be a problem, doubt it will be.
 

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Nice job. Also looking into removing tank one day to maybe clean things up there. Quite temted to remove the plumbing from the engine case and valv cover vent. Maybe with some small airfilters on the outlets but not shure how much of oil puking out of there?

I think the small sensor you moved is the ambient air pressure sensor. I think it is fine mounted under the tank but not shure.
 
KiwiKev said:
Heya team,
I did this more to save waiting for shipping than saving cash but now that cash can go towards some motogadget blaze pins :) ,also I had some time on my hands and it was fun to tinker.

I bought some 2.2 kohm by 1/2 watt resistors, as per SvePil's post on this forum (he suggested 1/4 watt which I couldn't get, cost was around $1 for a pack of 8.
Removed all the crap as per the online vids.
Bent the resistors as shown, then inserted them into the relevant plugs. They felt nice and tight and I'm confident its a nice positive connection. The slightly long pointy tails can then bend around the sides of the pug.
I had bought some heat shrink but don't have a heat gun and it was a touch windy to do it with a cigarette lighter, so I then just taped them with black electrical tape. This felt a bit nasty but I feel it'll seal as well as anything and will be sweet tucked under the seat, maybe I'll throw some heatshrink on top one day......
There was a plastic plug on the bottom of one of the removed hoses, this went into the trimmed back hose from the airbox. Currently the metal plate and hose from the head are just temporarily bunged up, I'll sort this when I'm back at my Fabrication shop next week.

I had my whole tank off during the process, as I also had to tidy away kev's o2 mod. This gave me extra room to play and I managed to move around a fair bit wiring from inside the frame on the right rear of engine. It looks way tidier and shows off that beautiful trellis from a lot more.

She's running well with no fault codes.
Click to expand...
1/4W resistors will be ok with a marginal. The effect in this application would be 0.08W if i have done the math right 😊
 
SvePil said:
Nice job. Also looking into removing tank one day to maybe clean things up there. Quite temted to remove the plumbing from the engine case and valv cover vent. Maybe with some small airfilters on the outlets but not shure how much of oil puking out of there?

I think the small sensor you moved is the ambient air pressure sensor. I think it is fine mounted under the tank but not shure.
Click to expand...
Yeah I was looking at those pipes and thinking I'd like to do something with them. I would also like to know if small filters could replace them.
 
SvePil said:
1/4W resistors will be ok with a marginal. The effect in this application would be 0.08W if i have done the math right 😊
Click to expand...
I'm guessing the .5w resistors that I used won't be a problem?
I wonder if the heavier 5w resistors have thicker wire? That would have been a lucky bonus for me and my use.

Thanks for your post about this the other day SvePil, I don't think I would have tackled it if I didn't stumble across that when I did.
 
KiwiKev said:
I'm guessing the .5w resistors that I used won't be a problem?
I wonder if the heavier 5w resistors have thicker wire? That would have been a lucky bonus for me and my use.

Thanks for your post about this the other day SvePil, I don't think I would have tackled it if I didn't stumble across that when I did.
Click to expand...
0,5 W is better than 0.25 W. It will be fine👍.

Is Kevs o2 mod the same solution as Rottweilers fuel dongle?

www.rottweilerperformance.com

Fueling Dongle

Use this dongle to get your KTM single cylinder running smooth.
www.rottweilerperformance.com www.rottweilerperformance.com
 
Kev's o2 mod is a different solution to the same problem. It's more sophisticated, does a better job and costs a little more. It leaves the o2 sensor in place and working.
 
KiwiKev said:
Kev's o2 mod is a different solution to the same problem. It's more sophisticated, does a better job and costs a little more. It leaves the o2 sensor in place and working.
Click to expand...
ok thank you for info. I got my RV dongle along with front and rear sprockets 15/42 today.
 
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KiwiKev
Looks good, did you have much trouble getting the tank panels/covers off, and the tank off.? I have in mind removing mine, and spending some time under there tidying up loose and uncovered/poorly finished wiring, think that is the most disliked bit of the whole package for me, thinking the factory weren't in the mood to finish her off properly.
 
I left the tank covers on the tank.
Pretty straight forward getting the tank off. Only slightly tricky bit is pulling off the front U shaped cover to access the front bolts. Near the ends of the U towards the front of the bike, you need to pull it off of the two mushroom retaining clips. This takes a fair bit of force. You can feel where these clips are if you slip your finger underneath. You can prise one side off at a time. The U piece will then pull forwards and off.

The fuel line is also a tad tricky to remove. Make sure you've fully disengaged the green tab before pulling it off.

No need to drain the tank, it shouldn't leak out.
 
Thanks for the info Kev, I have had the black bolt cover trim bit off, not been further yet, shall have a look at it after my first service is sorted.
 
KiwiKev said:
Kev's o2 mod is a different solution to the same problem. It's more sophisticated, does a better job and costs a little more. It leaves the o2 sensor in place and working.
Click to expand...
I seen that for racing in the olden days, it was common to plug in some resistors in between the o2 sensor and the loom.

This effectively changed the sensor reading to trick the ecu into always squirting a little more fuel, and did so without disabling the o2 entirely.
 
BISavage said:
I seen that for racing in the olden days, it was common to plug in some resistors in between the o2 sensor and the loom.

This effectively changed the sensor reading to trick the ecu into always squirting a little more fuel, and did so without disabling the o2 entirely.
Click to expand...
do you know what value to add to trick the o2 sensor to enrich the bike on the closed loop?
 
I think there is a misunderstanding, in the olden days sensory trickery for racing was simple as the old tech was more simple, in the olden days

it not so simple on the newer bikes.
 
Is it ok to just block the hoses for deleting the SAS system? I don't want to completely remove it for now, just to test something. So I was wondering if I could just block the two hoses(the one from airbox and the one from engine itself).
 
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