So I have this question.... For what I see by some pc5 maps for the VITPILEN 701 they enrich a lot only the area where the closed loop is active and the open loop area is in some cases it needs to get it leaner.... So I thought... If in the closed loop the narrowband has the control over the afr to maintain in the 14.7 to 1 and in the open loop is so rich I theoretically can mount a decat without. Any problems... What do you guys think?
Can I run my vitpilen 701 with a decat without pc5 or ecu map?
- Thread starter ErMartux
- Start date
I think I have seen some dyno chart with a decat, they lose quite a bit of torque in the mid range for a little power gain in the last rpms.
For me with a fuel dongle and an open airbox lid the bike runs pretty well.
If you want to improve the behaviour you should play on all the parameter (fuel, air, exhaust) to get the better out your configuration.
Or at least do a dyno chart before/after to know where you are.
For me with a fuel dongle and an open airbox lid the bike runs pretty well.
If you want to improve the behaviour you should play on all the parameter (fuel, air, exhaust) to get the better out your configuration.
Or at least do a dyno chart before/after to know where you are.
is possible to use a resistor installing it between the o2 sensor and the ecu to trick the bike and make it run ritcher ?
It's enough, can you link me or send me a tutorial on how crate this thing?
I have a Svartpilen 701 which I have removed airbox lid, fitted K&N filter, fitted cat delete mid pipe and removed dB killer from end can which all together makes the bike run very very lean. So I should have to ecu flash or fit Power Comander right?...........Wrong!
If you have done any mods that mess with the fueling the thing to do is-
Firstly if you have an O2 sensor dongle of any type fitted - remove it and connect O2 sensor as standard. Then turn on ignition, slowly open throttle to full and slowly close again. Switch off ignition. - This calibrates the throttle position sensor.
Then turn ignition on, start engine (without touching throttle) and allow engine to tick over for a minimum of 15 minutes. Then turn off ignition.
This resets the ecu and sets a base setting. This will mean that your bike should now fuel at its normal mixture.
If you have an O2 dongle refit it and you should be good to go.
Personally I have a Dimsport Rapid Bike Easy fitted instead of a resister type dongle.
It has two adjuster knobs. The first is set to No2 and the 2nd should be set to +2 (as per the instructions) but I have a AFR meter that I connected to the exhaust and by rotating knob 2 I am able to adjust the afr anywhere between 12to1 through 18to1. Ultimately I settled on +0.5 which gives 15to1. The bike feels great! It pulls much stronger from much lower, like it is a true thumper. All this without a reflash or PC in sight?
The only slight negative I have is that the traction control doesn't know that I have messed with the power delivery, so the back wheel can squirm a little under full throttle. Be warned ! Whacking the throttle open mid corner and let the bike provide the skill is NOT recommended! Especially as no one makes discrete crash bobbins for these bikes! BTW you can check out the throttle and ecu reset procedures on YouTube. Admittedly they are on KTM 690's but I can confirm they worked fine on my bike. I checked out the Tuneecu android app on my Svartpilen 701 and have to say it is quite good. It let's you see fault codes and see sensor data live and data logged but sadly does not give the functionality to read or send maps to the ecu like it does for Triumphs.
If you have done any mods that mess with the fueling the thing to do is-
Firstly if you have an O2 sensor dongle of any type fitted - remove it and connect O2 sensor as standard. Then turn on ignition, slowly open throttle to full and slowly close again. Switch off ignition. - This calibrates the throttle position sensor.
Then turn ignition on, start engine (without touching throttle) and allow engine to tick over for a minimum of 15 minutes. Then turn off ignition.
This resets the ecu and sets a base setting. This will mean that your bike should now fuel at its normal mixture.
If you have an O2 dongle refit it and you should be good to go.
Personally I have a Dimsport Rapid Bike Easy fitted instead of a resister type dongle.
It has two adjuster knobs. The first is set to No2 and the 2nd should be set to +2 (as per the instructions) but I have a AFR meter that I connected to the exhaust and by rotating knob 2 I am able to adjust the afr anywhere between 12to1 through 18to1. Ultimately I settled on +0.5 which gives 15to1. The bike feels great! It pulls much stronger from much lower, like it is a true thumper. All this without a reflash or PC in sight?
The only slight negative I have is that the traction control doesn't know that I have messed with the power delivery, so the back wheel can squirm a little under full throttle. Be warned ! Whacking the throttle open mid corner and let the bike provide the skill is NOT recommended! Especially as no one makes discrete crash bobbins for these bikes! BTW you can check out the throttle and ecu reset procedures on YouTube. Admittedly they are on KTM 690's but I can confirm they worked fine on my bike. I checked out the Tuneecu android app on my Svartpilen 701 and have to say it is quite good. It let's you see fault codes and see sensor data live and data logged but sadly does not give the functionality to read or send maps to the ecu like it does for Triumphs.
i have some questions, can you link me the rapid bike that you have? and second, i have a power commander 5 kit and in it there is a 02 sensor delete, should install it? and how you installed the afr meter? by using a different wideband o2 sensor or you used the original one?
PS: i don't have the power commander on because with that the quick shifter won't work correctly and to mount it you need to remove the o2 sensor
Hi,
The rapid bike I have is -
It is an O2 sensor delete. A relatively expensive one, but it is adjustable.
The standard O2 sensor on the bike is a narrow band sensor so as such just gives a signal that says the afr is either hi or low but not by how much.
The afr gauge I use is -
New 30-4110 Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge AFR 52mm with 4.9 LSU Sensor WideBand A/F | eBay UK
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for New 30-4110 Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge AFR 52mm with 4.9 LSU Sensor WideBand A/F at the best online prices at eBay UK! Free delivery for many products!
www.ebay.co.uk
It comes with a weld in adapter. I didn't want to drill and weld my exhaust so I filed the adapter down in diameter to fit a standard copper pipe fitting and soldered the assembly you can see in the photos.
You can see from the pictures that I had to extend the length of the thin pipe. This is because the shorter length worked OK on my CBR600 but gave odd readings on the 701. You need the sniffer pipe to at least reach down into the link pipe. So 400mm length is a minimum I would say.
The bottom line is : connect the bikes O2 sensor. Carry out the ecu reset and see where you are. Then fit the O2 elinator of your choice. Could be the one you already have is perfect? Rather than make your own afr meter you could ask a local bike mechanic to test your afr?
Hi,
The rapid bike I have is -
There is a specific model for the 701's. You can select your bike on the website.
It is an O2 sensor delete. A relatively expensive one, but it is adjustable.
The standard O2 sensor on the bike is a narrow band sensor so as such just gives a signal that says the afr is either hi or low but not by how much.
The afr gauge I use is -
New 30-4110 Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge AFR 52mm with 4.9 LSU Sensor WideBand A/F | eBay UK
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for New 30-4110 Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge AFR 52mm with 4.9 LSU Sensor WideBand A/F at the best online prices at eBay UK! Free delivery for many products!www.ebay.co.uk
It comes with a weld in adapter. I didn't want to drill and weld my exhaust so I filed the adapter down in diameter to fit a standard copper pipe fitting and soldered the assembly you can see in the photos.
You can see from the pictures that I had to extend the length of the thin pipe. This is because the shorter length worked OK on my CBR600 but gave odd readings on the 701. You need the sniffer pipe to at least reach down into the link pipe. So 400mm length is a minimum I would say.
The bottom line is : connect the bikes O2 sensor. Carry out the ecu reset and see where you are. Then fit the O2 elinator of your choice. Could be the one you already have is perfect? Rather than make your own afr meter you could ask a local bike mechanic to test your afr?
View attachment 5347View attachment 5345View attachment 5346
So in big lines I understand what you mean...I have another question
There is a model of the rapid bike easy that goes in between the original narrowband O2 sensor and the bike, is better or not that the one you have?
And second, I bought this afr meter a while ago but I don't know how to use it.. if you can explain how connect it I can use it
Erpmlyo Indicatore Rapporto Carburante 'Aria da 52 Mm Display Digitale Un LED Sensore di Ossigeno O2 Un Banda Stretta Indicatore per da 12V https://amzn.eu/d/99QcKNZ