Anyone did their own valves at 6000 miles?

Max Kool

Max Kool

pro rider
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Did they need any adjustement? Im doing it tomorrow if I find the time, but I don’t have a box of shims or a micrometer (yet).

Just curious what to expect.
 
I had the 6000 mile service done at the dealer (for warranty reasons)
They said they didn't need adjusting, but they might be a little less critical then you or me doing it yourself.

The next one at 12k I'll be doing myself, since the two year warranty will be over by then.

I never bought a box of shims for my 990, I just did the measurements, and if any needed adjusting I just measured the shims, and calculated what I needed. Ordered those, and installed them.
But I always made sure to do the valves in the off season, so it wasn't a problem if the bike was unusable for a couple of days.
 
So first thing to keep in mine is that the official tool from KTM is not super precise.

Second thing to keep in mind is that the official shims from KTM are not super precise.

Both the tool and the shims come in 0.05mm steps.

Catch my drift?

Screenshot_20210702-111730_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Max Kool said:
Which official tool?

I just plan on using feeler gauges…
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Yes, all of the feeler guages I have collected over the years are (much) more precise than the Official KTM feeler guage with 0.05mm increments.

I wanted to point out that with the tolerances laid out for a 0.05mm increment, it makes no sense to measure to 0.01mm increment.

Example: if the intake is loose on a 0.15 but a 0.20 doesnt go through, you are good, and dont need to measure whether its a .16 or a .19mm because a KTM/HQV mechanic using official tools doesnt have even the ability to do that.
 
I got no idea why I would want a Power Commander. It runs super strong already, and still has the stock cat.

Btw, oil came out very clean after 3000 miles, screens were clean and hardly any fuzz on the magnet.

Baby’s healthy 💪🏻
 
Oh btw, I used 15W60 full synthetic oil instead of 10W50, to see if it cures the cam chain tensioner rattle on a hot start, and it seems to be gone. I haven’t heard it in two days of riding. Also shifts a bit smoother.

Max is a happy biker
 
Max Kool said:
Oh btw, I used 15W60 full synthetic oil instead of 10W50, to see if it cures the cam chain tensioner rattle on a hot start, and it seems to be gone. I haven’t heard it in two days of riding. Also shifts a bit smoother.

Max is a happy biker
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Good to know, that rattle is so obnoxious, especially when trying to get gas or something. I was planning on tearing out my tensioner and exercising it like the pirate guys recommend and if that doesn’t make it better then go with the heavier oil. I’ve never had an engine run so good while also at the same time sounding like it’s going to throw a rod at any moment. It is shocking to get on the srx-600 or thruxton and not have all the wild engine noises.

andrew
 
Max Kool said:
... used 15W60 full synthetic oil instead of 10W50...
Click to expand...

Same brand of oil?

I ask because the viscosity spec of 50 ranges from 40 to 60, so a 50 from one brand might be thicker work more like a 60 and the other brand which is thinner and more like a 40.
 
Actionabe said:
Good to know, that rattle is so obnoxious, especially when trying to get gas or something.
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It is obnoxious starting up in front of folks - I had a first year BMW K75S that didn't have the piston rings pinned, and when you left it on the sidestand for too long (leaning towards the heads), you would get a big blue cloud of somoke on startup for a 30 seconds or so. Very embarrassing in front of a bunch of bikers! They fixed this in the next model year.
 
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