401 turn signal replacement with hyper flash fix

Vintage Veloce

pro rider
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I replaced my Turn Signals with with these slim sequential ones:

and I used this relay to fix the "fast flash" / "hyper flash issue:

PXL_20200930_204345383.jpg

I like the turn signals, they work great and were very inexpensive. But they may not be molded perfectly and don't all stick "perfectly" straight out. That is about the same as the stock original ones! That may be impossible to avoid because the mounting points on the husky are plastic and may not be perfectly perpendicular to the bike.

I actually found some great directions over at the vitipilenforum by pioneer401. I'm going to include them below in case anyone else finds them helpful. Thanks pioneer401!
He used different turn signals but the process mostly the same. The biggest difference is my signals did not come with a matching connector, so I cut the connectors off of the stock signals and soldered them to the new ones. Be sure to test the polarity before you solder them up.
I did this on a 2020, and it was the same as these directions as performed on an earlier bike 2018 or 2019 Vitpilen 401


pioneer401's post:
There’s a lot of partial info out there about turn signals, hyper flash issues, etc. so I documented my DIY install procedure as a reference that might be helpful to others. I am not getting any compensation for this write-up, I chose these specific products because I liked them and paid normal price. This should work for the Svartpilen as well, anyone who tries it, please reply! Good luck
2018 Vitpilen 401 (US Spec) – New Rage Cycles front turn signal install, CustomLED ELFR-1 relay
Parts:

Tools:

  • M5, M13 open ended wrenches
  • T20, T25 Torx hex bits/drivers
  • Small Phillips screwdriver
Turn Signal Install Procedure:
1. Remove (2) T20 torx screws above the headlight and (2) T20 torx screws below and to the rear of the headlight, accessible behind the forks.
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2. Pull forward the headlight/instrument assembly. It will tilt forward and out of the way. Consider wrapping the assembly in a towel to prevent scratches to the lens or instruments.
3. Remove (9) T25 torx screws holding the front half of the electrical system box cover
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4. With electrical system box cover lifted away, (2) M13 nuts are exposed to remove the stock turn signals. The two electrical connections are tucked back and routed through the housing, unplug and remove.
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5. Take NRC turn signal, and remove (2) flat head screws above lens to separate from bracket. Take provided M6x16 screw and M5 hex nut and mount the bracket to the rear position, not the same as where the M13 hex nuts were. Repeat on both sides.
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6. Reassemble lens to top bracket with (2) flat head screws removed in last step. Feed wire through the bracket opening and route through existing cable channels in electrical system housing. Plug connectors together and test turn signal operation before reassembly.
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7. Reassemble the electrical system box cover with (9) T20 torx screws and remount headlight/instrument assembly with (4) T25 torx screws.
If in step 6, you find the turn signals flash faster than normal, aka hyper flash, then modification to the electrical system is necessary. Resistors can be used on the turn signals to solve this. I opted to replace the stock flasher unit with a CustomLED ELFR-1. There are a couple reasons I chose this over resistors:

  • No cutting the stock wiring harness
  • One item to install which corrects all turn signals instead of 2 or 4 resistors to be installed
  • Resistors generate heat and it is recommended to mount them to metal surfaces to help dissipate the heat. Inside the front electrical system housing there are no metal surfaces to mount to and heat would be trapped inside the housing
Relay install procedure:
1. Just behind the forks at the point where the top of the subframe meets the steering head tube there is a v-shaped plastic cover. Remove (2) T25 screws to expose wiring harness.
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2. The flasher relay (part 30) is housed in a rubber strap/boot (part 31) which slides onto a flat metal support. There are three components like this in a triangle arrangement within the opening in the frame. The flasher relay is the one to the riders left, rear position. Slide the rubber boot off the support and extend to expose the stock relay and cable (parts 29-31).
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3. The stock flasher relay has 2-pins and connects via the extension cable (part 29). The cable connects to the bike wiring harness with a three-pin connector. The CustomLED ELFR-1 has a three-pin connector so it can connect directly to the bikes wiring harness without the extension cable.
4. The CustomLED ELFR-1 pins are not in the correct positons for the Vitpilen 401 wiring harness so it is necessary to move the pins positions on the ELFR-1 to match the wiring harness.

  • Red wire on ELFR-1 to power source, +12v
  • Black wire to blinker circuit supply wire, pulses intermittent +12v with flasher relay installed
Source: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0190/4226/files/ELFR-1_Installation.pdf?100
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5. Connect, turn on ignition and test the turn signals for proper flash rate
6. The CustomLED ELFR-1 can fit into the stock rubber strap/boot and mounted back to the stock mounting position on the frame. Replace v-shaped plastic cover with (2) stock T25 screws.
 
These look similar to mine and for the longest time they hyperflashed all the time. After trying a variable potentiometer it will still hyperflash.
I was banging my head against the wall trying to figure out what ohm resistor to use to stop this and then it occured to me, they worked out of the box when connected to 12V and therefore they DO NOT need a flasher.
I removed the flasher, closed the circuit and now they flash at normal speed.
Dash turn signal indicator stays on now instead of flashing but I find that better, a quick glance down may miss the flash, never when they are always on.
 
Ichbinder, these definitely required the LED flasher on my bike, I tested without it.
BUT... I have heard there is a dealer computer setting that can also be used for LED signals, as in other markets some of the bikes come with LEDs. Is there any chance your original signals were already LEDs or the setting got changed by the dealer or something?
I also noticed my dash indicator stays on instead of flashing, but the signals are working properly.
 
My stock indicator lights (the EUR/UK spec LED ones) all sit at slight different angles and are not all perfectly horizontal. It bugs my OCD, but I just ignore it. So much plastic, so little rigidity.
The dash turn signal lamp flashes at the same (normal) speed as the lights themselves. So either there's a EUR/UK spec stock flasher relay fitted, or there is a software setting somewhere that sorts this out.

My Harley Sportster came from the factory with LED rear and bulb-type front indicator lights! When I changed the front ones to LED, the lights themselves still flashed at normal speed, but the dash indicator lamp hyper flashes! I decided that this was acceptable because it makes the dash lamp more visible when the indicators are on, a bit like @ichbinbier has.
 
If you do have problems with the flashing rate, you can fit a Kellermann R2 unit. It corrected the problem I had with mine.
 
I replaced my Turn Signals with with these slim sequential ones:

and I used this relay to fix the "fast flash" / "hyper flash issue:

View attachment 162

I like the turn signals, they work great and were very inexpensive. But they may not be molded perfectly and don't all stick "perfectly" straight out. That is about the same as the stock original ones! That may be impossible to avoid because the mounting points on the husky are plastic and may not be perfectly perpendicular to the bike.

I actually found some great directions over at the vitipilenforum by pioneer401. I'm going to include them below in case anyone else finds them helpful. Thanks pioneer401!
He used different turn signals but the process mostly the same. The biggest difference is my signals did not come with a matching connector, so I cut the connectors off of the stock signals and soldered them to the new ones. Be sure to test the polarity before you solder them up.
I did this on a 2020, and it was the same as these directions as performed on an earlier bike 2018 or 2019 Vitpilen 401


pioneer401's post:
Many thx for posting!
 
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