401 Supermoto Build

Gesichtswurst

contributing rider
Joined
Jun 24, 2023
Messages
6
Location
Germany
Hey there

My name is Tobias and iam from Germany.
I thought i share some Pics and Text to you guys, may u like it :)

Starting point was a 23` Svartpilen 401 euro 5 wich i bought new and it run ~ 3500 km so far.
One month ago i started planning and disassembling my little Svart.

processed-2D200150-B946-4FE9-9477-80176F2874BD (41).jpeg

original-17A5D8B8-3909-4F29-BE7D-1D0A6D48DC85.jpeg

Mods:
- Husqvarna 501 TE 2017 Plastics
- Euro 4 Style Exhaust
- Coober ECU
- Custom Carbon Airbox to use with OEM Filter
- 15/44 Chainkit ZF Sprocket
- Cylinderhead porting
- Tubeless Rims (3M Sealed Rims)
- Titanium Screws everywhere
- Lifope4 Bat.
- Weight Reduction Boot Camp
- Reversed LCD Polarisation
- Custom Carbon Gauge Case
- Custom Carbon Footpegs
- Carbon Sidestand
- Custom wiring harness

upcoming
in work
done



processed-546F369B-1FBA-4568-8F30-4D3C44440284.jpeg

processed-4FB673FB-A2B9-4C97-B191-5CD637742254.jpeg

There is still much work left to do. i want her back an the road in 2-3 months.
At the moment i wait for some 3D Printing parts to build my very first custom Carbon holders for the Supermoto Plastics.


stay tuned
 
Today i got my wheels back from the wheel shop.
I'am so happy that the Rims are air tight with the 3M Sealing Tape (was my first try)
processed-EEAA56CC-80AD-4E99-8B5E-A3F1DA3A1235.jpeg
 
Nice project and there is a lot of work to do it!
At first sight I would say that the plastics may look a little too big on such a little bike, especially if you do not intend to rise the bike.
I would not have gone for carbon footpegs either for a security reason, but you must know what you are doing.
Anyway I will wait to see how it will turn out.
 
Sorry for not answering so long.

The Sealing process is very easy.

The tires and the tube have to be removed ofc.
On older rims u might find some tape on the inside towards the spokes wich has to be removed completely.
In case of the Svartpilen Rims u just find a rubber band.
Remove that and clean the surface with acetone or similar

now the taping process:
1. Start on the Opposite off the valve hole exactly between 2 spokes (u have about 1,5-2,5 cm space Front/Rear)
2. Press the tape firmly in the middle between the spokes on the Rim (Don't press the tape to the Spokehead as it
sticks out and u might get in trouble getting the tape straight an "Bubble" free
3. Work your way around the Rim ensuring that u stay as straight as possible in your life and with the tape.
4. As u come to the Start of the Tape overlap the tape at least 1,5cm
5. Go around again, First check for Failures and possible leaks (its very good visible where the tape isn't bonded on the rim)
and press the Tape to the rim once again
6. Heat the Tape carefully with an Heat Gun and use something soft what don't will puncture the Tape to release stress and ensuring
a good bond.
7. Protect the Sealing tape with Duct tape
8. Carfully cut out the Ventstamp Hole as the Tape is cooled down

U will need 2 x 8mm Tire valves (Car ones are 11,3mm or something)
The Tape I used and wich is used by many others is: "3M™ Hochleistungs-Dichtband 4411N"
Front: 35mm width
Rear: 55mm width

Weight saving is about 400-600 grams per Rim and u no longer need a tube on every Tire-change.



I still wait for the 3D-Printer parts from PCB-Way to make my Carbonpart Molds so I started my way working trough the Wiring Harness..
Mittel (IMG_0029).jpeg its a mess....


None of you guys could help me out with a Wiring Diagram ore some good pictures of the original wiring harness? I forgot to do some lol
 
Sorry for not answering so long.

The Sealing process is very easy.

The tires and the tube have to be removed ofc.
On older rims u might find some tape on the inside towards the spokes wich has to be removed completely.
In case of the Svartpilen Rims u just find a rubber band.
Remove that and clean the surface with acetone or similar

now the taping process:
1. Start on the Opposite off the valve hole exactly between 2 spokes (u have about 1,5-2,5 cm space Front/Rear)
2. Press the tape firmly in the middle between the spokes on the Rim (Don't press the tape to the Spokehead as it
sticks out and u might get in trouble getting the tape straight an "Bubble" free
3. Work your way around the Rim ensuring that u stay as straight as possible in your life and with the tape.
4. As u come to the Start of the Tape overlap the tape at least 1,5cm
5. Go around again, First check for Failures and possible leaks (its very good visible where the tape isn't bonded on the rim)
and press the Tape to the rim once again
6. Heat the Tape carefully with an Heat Gun and use something soft what don't will puncture the Tape to release stress and ensuring
a good bond.
7. Protect the Sealing tape with Duct tape
8. Carfully cut out the Ventstamp Hole as the Tape is cooled down

U will need 2 x 8mm Tire valves (Car ones are 11,3mm or something)
The Tape I used and wich is used by many others is: "3M™ Hochleistungs-Dichtband 4411N"
Front: 35mm width
Rear: 55mm width

Weight saving is about 400-600 grams per Rim and u no longer need a tube on every Tire-change.



I still wait for the 3D-Printer parts from PCB-Way to make my Carbonpart Molds so I started my way working trough the Wiring Harness..
View attachment 5137 its a mess....


None of you guys could help me out with a Wiring Diagram ore some good pictures of the original wiring harness? I forgot to do some lol

Thank you so much! I just bought a new mountain bike. It was shipped with tubes in the tires but all the stuff needed to convert it to tubeless was included in the box. It's a much simpler process with bicycle wheels. The spoke heads are recessed into the rim and applying the tape to the rim is very easy.
 
The 3D Printer Parts arrived this week.

IMG_0280.jpeg
IMG_0281.jpeg

I will test the fitment these days and prepare the molds for the carbon parts from them.

Also i got an full wiring harness diagram from an 2019 KTM DUKE wich should be similiar.
So theres still a lot of work to do.
 
Is this just a fun transitional project or are you planning to use it as a supernoto? If so then why not just purchase a supernoto from the start?
 
Is this just a fun transitional project or are you planning to use it as a supernoto? If so then why not just purchase a supernoto from the start?

The quality of what he's building will undoubtedly be better than a turnkey SM. Perhaps he wanted a SM based on the 390 motor. Only recently did KTM introduce the 390 SM.
 
The quality of what he's building will undoubtedly be better than a turnkey SM. Perhaps he wanted a SM based on the 390 motor. Only recently did KTM introduce the 390 SM.
Better? It's still a basic low powered single cylinder which will only ever be comparable to bikes in its class which is low on the pole to most SM bikes which are above 600cc. I mean great but if you really want bragging rights then you should be doing something with a more powerful engine wouldn't you say?

Also the new KTM supermoto 390 is just a marketing gimmick if you ask me and I seriously doubt it will go anywhere since weighs more than the 690.
 
Better? It's still a basic low powered single cylinder which will only ever be comparable to bikes in its class which is low on the pole to most SM bikes which are above 600cc. I mean great but if you really want bragging rights then you should be doing something with a more powerful engine wouldn't you say?

Also the new KTM supermoto 390 is just a marketing gimmick if you ask me and I seriously doubt it will go anywhere since weighs more than the 690.

CycleCruza on YouTube has a 690 SM and thought that the 390 might be better, that the 690 has too much power.

I would think that a guy like Gesichtswurst with all his skill, knows what he wants.
 
CycleCruza on YouTube has a 690 SM and thought that the 390 might be better, that the 690 has too much power.

I would think that a guy like Gesichtswurst with all his skill, knows what he wants.
Considering the majority of SM riders are using 600+cc's on the track then the only reason I can see an experienced rider going under 600cc would be if they were in a financial bind or they live in a country with limitations to output cc motorcycles. However, If the rider is inexperienced then it is advised to stick with a lower cc due to the peaky torque curve that could put the new rider in danger.

Maybe the intention is to ride the sm on the regular streets? If that's the case then you can still make a 690 work infavor over the 401 by controlling the overall power output of the 690 using a restrictor for less air entry and/or smaller sprockets. The restrictor on the 690 sm would reduce the hp in half putting it along the same line as a the 401. The 690 sm is even virtually the same weight as the 401. You can just as much mod both bikes to reduce their weights even further.
 
Considering the majority of SM riders are using 600+cc's on the track then the only reason I can see an experienced rider going under 600cc would be if they were in a financial bind or they live in a country with limitations to output cc motorcycles. However, If the rider is inexperienced then it is advised to stick with a lower cc due to the peaky torque curve that could put the new rider in danger.

Maybe the intention is to ride the sm on the regular streets? If that's the case then you can still make a 690 work infavor over the 401 by controlling the overall power output of the 690 using a restrictor for less air entry and/or smaller sprockets. The restrictor on the 690 sm would reduce the hp in half putting it along the same line as a the 401. The 690 sm is even virtually the same weight as the 401. You can just as much mod both bikes to reduce their weights even further.

Are you aware the 690 is $13k and the 390 is something like $5500?
 
Are you aware the 690 is $13k and the 390 is something like $5500?
Sure if you must have new and are willing to pay over $13k at a dealer. That's a bit over the top since there's no real reason why you can't buy used when there are a ton of great condition motorcycles out on the used market and you won't have to worry about taxes on a private sale. Also new motorcycles greatly depreciate fast just like cars. KTM is no exception since the 390/401 are quite common on the marketplace since they are treated as beginner bikes here in the states.

As of right now I see a 2021 690SMRC with 1.2kmi for $8k on Facebook marketplace where I live. That's $3k shy from a similar used 390 at $5k since a new 390 is not $5.5k flat at the dealer. After you factor in taxes, fees, crate, etc etc then It will all rack up to nearly $7.5k or so from its MSRP of $5,899. Same thing goes with a new 401 at the dealer.

So if we are going to compare apples to apples then you should say $8k for a used 690 smrc vs a $5k for a used 390/401. I wouldn't even bother with new. Considering the poster is in Germany then that can certainly change matters but for me being in the states then I have to look out for what's the best price point for what I'm getting and new is simply not an option for an experienced rider unless I have money to blow.
 
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Not sure the bodywork actually fits. The proportions are out, the body would need to shrink down 20% to look correct I think. I think this idea has some merit but the execution in this case has some flaws. I would have just saved my money and bought a proper Supermoto if that is what you want. Personally I think you are trying to turn something into something it will never be, but each to their own and I give you credit for trying something new.
As the OP has not been on for around a year I doubt if this has progressed any further though.
 
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Sure if you must have new and are willing to pay over $13k at a dealer. That's a bit over the top since there's no real reason why you can't buy used when there are a ton of great condition motorcycles out on the used market and you won't have to worry about taxes on a private sale. Also new motorcycles greatly depreciate fast just like cars. KTM is no exception since the 390/401 are quite common on the marketplace since they are treated as beginner bikes here in the states.

As of right now I see a 2021 690SMRC with 1.2kmi for $8k on Facebook marketplace where I live. That's $3k shy from a similar used 390 at $5k since a new 390 is not $5.5k flat at the dealer. After you factor in taxes, fees, crate, etc etc then It will all rack up to nearly $7.5k or so from its MSRP of $5,899. Same thing goes with a new 401 at the dealer.

So if we are going to compare apples to apples then you should say $8k for a used 690 smrc vs a $5k for a used 390/401. I wouldn't even bother with new. Considering the poster is in Germany then that can certainly change matters but for me being in the states then I have to look out for what's the best price point for what I'm getting and new is simply not an option for an experienced rider unless I have money to blow.

Good points but you pay sales tax whether you buy new or used.

A friend was having his 1 year old Toyota serviced and the sales manager asked him if he'd like to trade it in on a brand new one for $2000.

He declined because it also meant paying sales tax and license on a $45k car, lol.

Frankly, I like the 390 SM. I think it would be a fun bike to have in it's own right.
 
Not sure the bodywork actually fits. The proportions are out, the body would need to shrink down 20% to look correct I think. I think this idea has some merit but the execution in this case has some flaws. I would have just saved my money and bought a proper Supermoto if that is what you want. Personally I think you are trying to turn something into something it will never be, but each to their own and I give you credit for trying something new.
As the OP has not been on for around a year I doubt if this has progressed any further though.

Maybe he detected a lack of enthusiasm from this site and went elsewhere.
 
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