Search results

The red connector is so you or a dealer can plug in a scan/diagnostic tool. The red part affixed to the frame is just a holder for the connector so it does not need to be plugged together. The other two plugs I think are the auxiliary power and switched power connections. Do as you want with...

No need for a tail tidy to use a paddock stand. You can still install the "knobs. lol" on the bike, you just need longer bolts on the left side to work with the stock rear fender/lic plate assembly.

It still might be the battery. 12.4V if it was just charged is low. It should start it but that is provided that 12.4V is maintained when the key is turned on. Hook up the battery charger to the battery in the bike and see if you get the same result.

If it was me I would take it to the dealer and tell them to fix the oil leaks under warranty but don't do a service because you just did one (lol). They will probably need to change the oil to fix the leaks so you are done until the next PMS.

I just saw this now but if you are still having issues search google for "KTM390 rear brake bleeding" and there are some posts about this being a real pain to get the air out and what to do. heres one: https://www.ktmduke390forum.com/threads/bleeding-the-rear-mc.48660/

No experience with the KTMs other than my 401 (no issues) but usually brass or gold colored glitter or flakes is bearing material. I would do as you plan to do - a short run and then drain oil and inspect oil and filters again. If still there then personally i would tear the engine down to...

The Fuel-x will do zero on a dyno. You are looking at wide open throttle on a dyno and the fuel-x works in "Closed Loop" only, so part throttle. So if(?) it needs more fuel to make more power you will need to remap the ECU or add some resistance to the IAT to richen it up.

I know you say that those batteries start larger bikes but this sure sounds like bad batteries. When they measure 6V when the starter is engaged is not good, should stay above 10V. Those larger bikes - where either of them a single cylinder? These 401's take a lot of CCA;s to start, more than...

I think there must be something else going on like your new pipe is vibrating against the frame.

I have never had that code but start with the plug and like you say check compression while in there. Could be coil or fuel filter, fuel injector. What I do know is that a Fuel-x will not solve your problem. Oh and make sure the fuel lines are not kinked while you change the filter.

What LiPo battery is it. I bought a Lithium battery online that should have been capable of starting my 401 but it just clicked. I put it in a 150cc scooter I have and it fires that right up. The seller finally agreed that it would not work on my 401 and took it back. Bought a Yuasa lead...

Google say 2024 Svart 401 has wheelbase of 1367mm (54 inches). So that is to the axles, add maybe 12 inches to each and that is 76 inches. Divide by 12 and I get 6.5ft. So it might fit diagonally in a 5.5ft bed. shrug shoulders

First thing to look at is if there is enough clearance at full down travel of the front forks for the fender or wheel to clear. Looking at mine I have 4 inches of down travel and the front fender only has about 4.25" before it would hit the lower triple clamp. A 19" tire will be about 1"...

I would say it is probably just a little low on oil from the 1300 miles on it. If you add like a 1/4 quart it might bring it close to full or about 1/2 way on site glass. It don't take much to go from not visible to enough. Oh and don't be shocked if you see a bunch of silicone debris in...

I have not done a spark plug change yet but I have seen two methods for replacing it. One is you remove the fuel tank and the other is to go in thru the side by removing the coil. Both look like a pain but I plan to try the side method as I hate dealing with those fuel hoses.

So is it too loud with the chamber deleted and the slip on installed? That was my experience but then again I have neighbors and law enforcement to deal with :p Myself I like to do a mod and then ride it and see what the mod has done instead of doing them all at once. Also if it don't run...

It is hardware. It goes in-line with the stock Intake Air Temperature sensor. Makes the ECU think the air temp is lower than reality. So it adds more fuel. If you search on the words KTM and booster plug you will find info. Some even run both the booster plug and the Fuel-x in combination...

As far as fueling goes their are like three ways to go. 1. Fuel-x which modifies the O2 sensor signal so it runs richer in closed-loop mode. 2. ECU piggyback that hooks to multiple sensors and controls the fuel to the injector, works in open-loop mode. 3 The Booster Plug option which...

It is not really as loud as it might appear. I will get a video of it out of the garage later and post. Much quieter at idle than any slip on would be. $5 airbox mod is just opening up the top of the airbox and installing a filter. Just cut mine from scrap aluminum and then added filter...

Here is what it sounds like. Not perfect but I can now live with the noise at idle but still enjoy some top end exhaust sound. Anything with a slip on was too noisy for me at idle.