Search results

Most exhaust company sell the DB killer in different sizes so the performance / noise can be tuned. I would expect sawn off tubes to sound a bit more but perform somewhat less.

For my experiance, the Akro with DB Killer is quieter than stock End Can. Also, the Open Airbox at full throttle is louder than the exhaust, especially when "sport" air filters are used. Have you treid only using a 3 hole lid with stock paper air filter and the DB killer in the Akro to see if...

I put a piece of tape on the brake caliper so it doesnt scuff the wheel.

Beginning with the euro5 emission norms there is a newer ECU in the bike which controls the combustion via the 02 sensor. (Unlike previous models where the 02 sensor only worked more simplified)

Be careful which versions of bike they are for. Euro 4 models is working with the "traditional" tuning options Euro 5 models is not working with most tuning options

Front: Rear:

Easy with the suggestions 🙉 I will stop trying to help now and go back to minding my other businesses.

Dont have to take my word for it. I will point out that I have personally close-course-tested about every pipe immaginable on my old 401 and ended up with Cat and Chamber installed.

Yes.

It makes the bike work properly. (Engine performance, center of gravity...)

Doesnt surprise me that they wanted a bit of cash moneys to adjust it. Would chalk it up to lessons learned, I mean it is your first bike and all.

Definately leave the chamber, an ECU or Fuel Tune will not fix the problem removing it will create. Do you plan on keeping the stock end-can for the look / style?

Definately cool. I would only recommend - Leave the exhaust chamber in place and keep the performance it brings.

I had the MotoMaster Flame Rotor, one on each set of wheels for my 401; it is also a floating type. Also tested out a few different pad types. In reality though, I felt like changing from regular brake fluid to Motul RBF 660 was the biggest change in brake performance on the 401. (In...

On other vehicles, with more wheels, the suspension upgrades which I performed have always resulted in a change in travel, sometimes more and sometimes less. Maybe thats the case here as well, the parts will "work" on the Svartpilen with the "side effect" being a change in travel?

Excellent question. Looking to get experianced with the Conti & Metzeler next. My preferred pressures so far as follows: (F/R) Rosso 4: 31.5 / 33.5 psi Angel GT2: 32 / 35 psi Power 5: 30 / 31 psi S21: 33 / 36.5 psi Of course measured cold, relative to 25°C

Is your clutch cable adjusted so that it is fully releasing the clutch when you pull the lever? Dont force the gears, they are not made for that. When the bike is stationary with engine off you need to roll it a bit back or forth sometimes to be able to shift, other wise the gears dont spline...

So, while my 700'er is rolling on Rosso 4 now, I put some consideration into testing out seasonal Rubber usage and this is what I came up with: Spring, 4 Months, 15°-75°F: Conti Road 4 Summer, 2 Months, 75°-105°F: Metzler RR K3 Autumn, 3 Months, 60°-75°F: Pirelli Rosso 4

I recommend multiple Layers of cloths/gear, and typically had insulated motorcycle gear and then the full length thermo under cloths for snow boarding on. Lithium batteries need to warm up, turning the bike lights in for some minutes or cranking the starter normally does the job. Lithium is...

Well as long as you have the appropriate gear you should be protected against the weather conditions. Below -10° it gets pretty unpleasant without wind protection, and the bike didnt like to start at those temperatures until the lithium battery I installed warmed up enough to spin the starter...