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It's way up in there. You have be down looking up. You will see a white connector with a screw. That's the sensor. Get a pick or small screwdriver to release the connector clip . Then gently pull down the cable

That why I ordered the single pannier kit. Tools, CO2 inflator. A fold up backpack and a pack safe net for my gear .

I don't know that specific one. But almost all of them Do the same thing. Alter the signal from the O2 sensor. I personally use a boosterplug. I've used them for years on all my bikes. It's different in that it alters the intake air signal. And has a temperature probe for compensation.

Its not that it's faulty. Many new bikes run lean from the factory for emissions. That tends to make them snatchy in low revs. This is exacerbated by the thumper engine that doesn't really like low revs. Adding more fuel. Through whatever device you pick. Helps smooth that out.

Kouba lowering link is a popular brand. For many bikes

You can crank the preload down. Or buy a lowering link .

Is the key in on position .then in could be fuel pump or tps servo like in this video. First noise is fuel pump prime. Continued noise is servo . That noise is normal. ( Though it doesn't sound like it). But only if the key is on. If not you have a short somewhere. You didn't accidentally hook...

If you have tiny fingers needle nose pliers ands a small screwdriver . You don't need to remove tank. I didn't. It's a little tucked up but visible reachable. A bit behind throttle body on left side. This is my 3rd bike where booster plug was first mod. Euro emissions are too lean.

Both those apps usually work. You have a white diagnostic port connector . And a six pin to obd2 cable correct. Maybe try repairing and setup . I think you have to have app open and in settings menu first before you pair device. Then pick ktm connection profile in settings

What app are you using with the Bluetooth one. The device needs to be selected in the app settings before it will connect and read

Is the bike running. Is this a module that pairs to phone or a standalone device. I have a module that's works with torque app. But other apps don't won't so it could just be software / protocols .

They have been out of stock for over a year. ( waiting on replacement). They said Nov 2023 . So we will see what happens.

Yeah I think I will keep my extra torque at lower rpm. The 18000 mile valve service is crazy though to bad it's desmo . Why is it that only Ducati offer race exhaust and map combos even if they are like 2500 dollars (scrambler)

Husqvarna 701 maps may work. What modifications do you have. Here is one for pilen https://www.rottweilerperformance.com/701-svartpilen-vitpilen-open-air-box-decat-muffler-w-db-power-ignition-advance/. Contact rottweiler performance in USA. Or mabey dynojet directly.

I thought the same when I posted this same thing months ago. Then I realized I was also working on my bike. So normally I would have pressed the starter before the fuel pump stopped priming which would hide the sound. And also my helmet would be on lessening the sound.

You don't stop it . It's normal. You just never noticed it before.

Very likely. Simple to find out though. If the problem disappears when you put the stock dash back on. Then yes.

The flat dash left a big gap. So instead of moving screen down. Just added a filler piece

Take 4. Always wanted factory 401 screen(701 was never offered because dash positions are different). But they were always never in stock / to expensive. They finally hit ebay/ali/ Amazon. In 3 colors clear, black,brown. I got the brown. 70 $. Had to modify the crap out of it. And may move it...

The regular dealer. Should be able to check for stored fault codes and see if the ecu is okay. Don't think you need a reflash. I remember someone else saying they took it to dealer to fix a non working quick shifter.