My 2021 Svartpilen 401, edited

dakaroo

dakaroo

fast rider
Joined
May 13, 2021
Messages
47
Location
Peso of the North, Kelowna BC
It came with 1km on the odometer. Its a week old and only managed to get 40km on it. I have noticed an issue, when shifting to nuetral it just does not want to go to nuetral, skips and goes to 2nd, no matter how careful movement on the shifter. Have noticed if I turn the ignition off, restart, I'm able to shift to nuetral. Regardless I will bring back to dealer for them to look at it. Any ideas?
Edit - Just adding as I don't want to start another thread. So I washed the bike yesterday and warmed the bike thru and noticed that top end seems to be making a lot of noise, is this normal for 401 or 390 taking into account the compression 12.8 ratio, or is it new bike jitters?
 

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I always go to neutral from 2nd for the same reason. Never thought this was a problem tho. Let me know what the dealer says! lol
 
I've got 1200 kms on my Svart 401 and have the same problem, as do many others. So many, in fact, that there is a company who sells an aftermarket shift mechanism for the bike.

Inside the right side case there is a star shaped piece with a wheel on a sprung lever. Each gear position is locked into place when the wheel drops into the gap between the star's points as it turns with your toe tap. Neutral is a much smaller depression at the point of one of the star's 'fingers'. A toe tap easily pushes the star around and the wheel doesn't lock into that slight depression. The aftermarket star and wheel do it better.

Somewhere in the past few weeks there is a post about it but I forget the thread title. A bit of a search and you will probably find it.
 
dakaroo said:
It came with 1km on the odometer. Its a week old and only managed to get 40km on it. I have noticed an issue, when shifting to nuetral it just does not want to go to nuetral, skips and goes to 2nd, no matter how careful movement on the shifter. Have noticed if I turn the ignition off, restart, I'm able to shift to nuetral. Regardless I will bring back to dealer for them to look at it. Any ideas?
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Yeah I have issues finding neutral on my 2020 as well. Probably the most annoying thing about the bike, but I just work around it. I just go into second and then very lightly tap down. Probably less than half the force I would use on a normal downshift. I've mostly gotten used to it, but it's still annoying because sometimes I'll also get neutral when I want 1st so it feels like Neutral only decides to show itself when it's not wanted. If it's giving you that much of an issue though definitely see what the dealer has to say because that's one those things that's right on the border of being a safety issue.
 
I just roll it an inch or slip the clutch and then it works.

The shift kit improved it tremendously, but sometimes it still needs to roll a bit before it wants to let go.

The bike seems to work better with fresh oil... nice and thick, unlike the break in oil which needs to stay in for the first 1000km till everything sits.
Also applies to the top end noise, break it in, let em pour in some quality 15w50 semi-synthetic oil and behold the night and day experience.
 
Thank you for your reply. I was actually going to do full oil change at 100, 500, and 1000kms using KN-155 and Motul 15w50.
I've had excellent results doing with new cars and trucks (oil is cheap), was hoping it would translate to motorcycle as well.
 
I know everyone does it different...
I just figure if the engineers didnt know what they were doing then why would they get paid money to do it.
 
BISavage said:
I know everyone does it different...
I just figure if the engineers didnt know what they were doing then why would they get paid money to do it.
Click to expand...
I don't discount what engineers say (they often times make life difficult for mechanics) Maybe I just go beyond requirements?
My best example new 1991 Ranger 3.0L 5spd, did the oil change as above and I also changed the trans and diff oil at 500km and I changed the oil every 5000km until I traded it for scrap it @ 135000km and bought a new 2011 GMC Sierra. The Ford only needed clutch, starter, wire set/plugs, shocks, brakes, no engine work and didn't burn oil
 
Well to be Fair, the Ford didnt have 400hp, the equivalent hp/liter as the little Pilen.

And for sure 1 tire on either pickup cost more than a piston kit for the little Pilen 🤯
 
For the Filter I picked up the HiFlo Filtro 155 which looks very similar to k&n and is often available in multi quantities for a good price.
 
Svart had 135km, so did the first oil change 30 May.
I used HF155 filter, and Motul 5100 15w50 oil, I cleaned both screens in clean solvent.
The image shows the screens, little bits of silicone etc, what would be expected.
I will do another oil change around 500km, cleaning screens again, and at 1000km oil change I will replace the screens.
Note, shifting improved with fresh oil :)
 

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Yes, screens look pretty normal.

On mine the motul 5100 seems to shift the best of all I used so far.

Did you look in the little screen hole with a flash light?

At the first change I noticed the guy at the shop was doing that.
Then at a later change there was something seen with the "flashlight" check; the needle nose were then used to pull out an inch long black silicon strip... also normal 🤯🤯🤯
 
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