Gearing changes?
- Thread starter Vintage Veloce
- Start date
BISavage
champion rider
Hahahaha, with the rekluse it does automatic clutch up wheelies.
We used to rent honda quads at the beach, and with like 2 horse powers (rounded up) we would ride wheelies in the sand on those things all day.
Our baby bikes are lighter and considerably more powerful, and I cannot condone intentionally popping wheelies on the street.
We used to rent honda quads at the beach, and with like 2 horse powers (rounded up) we would ride wheelies in the sand on those things all day.
Our baby bikes are lighter and considerably more powerful, and I cannot condone intentionally popping wheelies on the street.
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hello, have you found a 16t front sprocket in europe by now? looking for one too!
cheers, Hannes.
BISavage
champion rider
Yes I have found a supplier who can get the driven from USA, costs about 3x as much any other non-16 tooth sprocket though, and 2 weeks lead time vs. 2 days.
so ,i got my 16t sprocket.
i REALLY like it.
it sort of changes the bike from constant 'RACE' mode to everyday driver mode.
longer pulls between gear shifts.
and 6th is a REAL overdrive,meaning, no 6th gear below 80km/h (= 4000rpm)
but i plan on richening up the fuel to have a smoother engine below 4000rpm aswell.
so 16/45 is a good thing for me, altough 15/43 would have been (maybe) even better choice (stock, without a richer mixture).
i REALLY like it.
it sort of changes the bike from constant 'RACE' mode to everyday driver mode.
longer pulls between gear shifts.
and 6th is a REAL overdrive,meaning, no 6th gear below 80km/h (= 4000rpm)
but i plan on richening up the fuel to have a smoother engine below 4000rpm aswell.
so 16/45 is a good thing for me, altough 15/43 would have been (maybe) even better choice (stock, without a richer mixture).
BISavage
champion rider
Lookin at the DYNOs I wouldnt get my hopes up for anything more than marginal performance losses at <4000 rpm
My question: is it necessary to rev that low?
My question: is it necessary to rev that low?
no it's not nescessary to ride that low in revs but it makes it smoother over the whole range.
not looking at more power, just more smoothness.
BISavage
champion rider
How old is yo bike.
I found 401 did "smoothen" out considerably at around 10000 km.
Valves arent up until 15000km, so after that everything should be settled.
I found 401 did "smoothen" out considerably at around 10000 km.
Valves arent up until 15000km, so after that everything should be settled.
mine's got about 6600km right now.
but i am convinced that all stock bikes run lean because of emissions and therefor could use a litlle more fuel.
first valve check is around 15000km you say? sweet, got another year to go then
but i am convinced that all stock bikes run lean because of emissions and therefor could use a litlle more fuel.
first valve check is around 15000km you say? sweet, got another year to go then
BISavage
champion rider
The abs sensor in the wheel should be responsible for the speedometer; so no, gearing alone will not change the speedometer reading.
Changing wheel/tire circumference would change the reading.
Changing wheel/tire circumference would change the reading.
Factory-Fit
fast rider
mine's got about 6600km right now.
but i am convinced that all stock bikes run lean because of emissions and therefor could use a litlle more fuel.
first valve check is around 15000km you say? sweet, got another year to go then
Factory-Fit
fast rider
Fitted FuelX lite, transforms the bike, way easier to ride in town with less tendency to jerk and stall, no 'hunting' on short corners and generally sweeter. Now wondering whether 16t front sprocket a good idea to take advantage of better flexibility
BISavage
champion rider
I have heard that the 16t makes the bike faster 0-60mph, and from everyone who has it a very positive reviews.
BlackFlag
contributing rider
Where did you get it from??? The cost to get one from the US is crazy for europe....
Liteway
expert rider
How can this be? I have never heard of taller gearing improving acceleration before. Defies logic. If a 16 tooth improves acceleration, why stop there?
I can see how switching to a taller gear (16 tooth)would make for lower rpm more relaxed highway cruising.
I can see that switching to a shorter (14 tooth ) would make for snappier off the line response and closer overall gear ratios.
You can have a choice, but you cannot have your cake and eat it too.
If I was big guy riding mostly in a low speed environment it might pay to shorten the gearing.
A light weight person doing a lot of highway might benefit from taller gearing.
As a slightly lighter than average weight rider who does mixed riding, the factory gearing works ideally for me, and that makes sense as I am sure they were aiming at Joe/Jane average. JMO.
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I’m not saying one person is right and one is wrong here but I have changed gearing on my last two bikes.
On the first one I went down one tooth in the front. Didn’t notice much difference when it came to acceleration but easier to ride at low speeds in the city. Max speed didn’t change.
On the next bike I did the opposite, I went down 3 teeth in the rear. Did notice lower revs at higher speeds but no difference in acceleration.
Both bikes performed better for their intended use. On the second bike I was riding at speeds between two gears on twisty roads before I changed the gearing. The best benefit after the swap was that I now had a natural gear for the twisty roads.
The 401 is very shortly geared. At 35km/h I’m already in 3rd gear. My guess is that up one tooth in the front won’t make the bike feel slow at all but will result in lower revs at 100km/h.
I have only used the bike for commuting so far so I have no idea what gear I’ll end up riding in on twisty roads.
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Liteway
expert rider
When posting about gearing preferences, it would be helpful to know the weight of the rider with gear, the type of riding they like and the environment they ride in.
For me that is 155 lbs., suburban and rural with less frequent urban and state highway use. Dirt/trial riding not much but some. Interstate one time only. No desire to do wheelies and stunts.
To clarify, not averse to the thrill of the front wheel leaving the ground unexpectedly as the revs climb in first or second provided a bike has the power, but if it can only get airborne by dumping the clutch and/or pulling on the bars, not interested.
For me that is 155 lbs., suburban and rural with less frequent urban and state highway use. Dirt/trial riding not much but some. Interstate one time only. No desire to do wheelies and stunts.
To clarify, not averse to the thrill of the front wheel leaving the ground unexpectedly as the revs climb in first or second provided a bike has the power, but if it can only get airborne by dumping the clutch and/or pulling on the bars, not interested.
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GeoKrpan
top rider
I should have changed the front sprocket to a 15 from a 14 on my last bike. 2nd gear was too low and 3rd gear was too high for the twisties. 2nd gear would have become more usable. The 401 is geared much higher than my previous bike, CB300R. The 401 works much better in the twisties, 2nd gear is very usable. However, I don't use 6th gear much, it's much higher than the 6th gear on the CB. I frequently used 6th gear on the CB.
I'm leaving the gearing alone on my Vit.