I was surprised they didn’t melt earlier to be honest...
Guess you can also judge now exactly how much shorter they need to be by the amount it melted.
Tom, did you make a scan of the baseplate measurements? I’m getting tired of waiting for Evotech. I guess I could make a baseplate during winter as a slow project.Now with black baseplate and some black stainless steel screws...
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Yeah, that will take a lot of work for sure. If you could post the measurements, that would be much appreciated.Hi Yonsson,
here also a pic of the backside of the baseplate I fabricated.
I adapted the plate directly to the recess on the rear frame.
Yes, I also made a sketch of the plate and can scan it.
But the plate needs to be beveled on all sides; one side quite a lot.
Alternaively a plate can be fabricated without the bevels; but with bigger gaps; would be more simple.
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Here also (again) the photo of recess on the rear frame.
You'll notice the gap between the two parts of the rearframe isn't perfectly straight.
So the boreholes for the countersunk screws in the baseplate to mount it to the rearframe may not fit 100% on your frame.
Maybe standard Inbus- or Torx-screws instead of the countersunk screws (with a tad bigger boreholes) are a better solution if the plate is not fitted directly to your bike (that's what nearly all manufacturers do).
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Isn’t filing down the bevels the easiest thing? Looks harder to me to get it the right overall size.I'll see if I can make a technical drawing of a "universal" baseplate that can work with slightly larger gap sizes without having to bevel the edges.
Next to a pdf-file, I could then also create the drawing as a DWG/DXF-file so that it could also be used for laser- or water jet cutting...
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