Fender Eliminator

I was surprised they didn’t melt earlier to be honest. That’s why I chose to install a shorter slip on.
 
I was surprised they didn’t melt earlier to be honest...

I was yesterday quite surprised.
Only difference to my other daytrips; yesterday I did some "faster" riding on the highway; but just a couple of kilometers and still not above 6500rpm.
After the first successful rides, I thought the minor distance between the muffler and the turn signal is OK; as it's slightly offset.
Lesson learned, not enough offset...

IMG_6490_01.jpg
 
Last edited:
Guess you can also judge now exactly how much shorter they need to be by the amount it melted.

At about 6000 rpm it's just the tip, but how much will it be at 9500 rpm?
Does plastic melt linear or exponential? ;)
 
Today I ordered some "Motoism" "KTM/Husqvarna/GASGAS Competition Indicators".
After some research it seams to be the best option that will work with the highpipe and will also fit to the design of the Evotech tail tidy and the design of 801.

Motoism_01.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here also a link to the turn signals:

 
Today I received the Motoism turn signals; together with some custom adapter cables (with resistors that should fit the 801?)...

240906_Motoism.jpg
 
Last edited:
Now with two additional 15mm extensions to fit the Motoism turn signals to the Evotech tail tidy.
To fit the European regulations it needs to be 180mm between the lenses of the turn signals.

IMG_6788.jpeg

IMG_6793.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Hi Yonsson,
here also a pic of the backside of the baseplate I fabricated.
I adapted the plate directly to the recess on the rear frame.
Yes, I also made a sketch of the plate and can scan it.
But the plate needs to be beveled on all sides; one side quite a lot.
Alternatively a plate can be fabricated without the bevels; but with bigger gaps; it would definitely be more simple.

240805_09.jpg


Here also (again) the photo of the recess on the rear frame.
You'll notice, the gap between the two parts of the rearframe isn't perfectly straight.
So the boreholes for the countersunk screws in the baseplate to mount it to the rearframe may not fit 100% on your frame.
Maybe standard Inbus- or Torx-screws instead of the countersunk screws (with a tad bigger boreholes) are a better solution if the plate is not fitted directly to your bike (that's what nearly all manufacturers do).

240812_02.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi Yonsson,
here also a pic of the backside of the baseplate I fabricated.
I adapted the plate directly to the recess on the rear frame.
Yes, I also made a sketch of the plate and can scan it.
But the plate needs to be beveled on all sides; one side quite a lot.
Alternaively a plate can be fabricated without the bevels; but with bigger gaps; would be more simple.

View attachment 5842


Here also (again) the photo of recess on the rear frame.
You'll notice the gap between the two parts of the rearframe isn't perfectly straight.
So the boreholes for the countersunk screws in the baseplate to mount it to the rearframe may not fit 100% on your frame.
Maybe standard Inbus- or Torx-screws instead of the countersunk screws (with a tad bigger boreholes) are a better solution if the plate is not fitted directly to your bike (that's what nearly all manufacturers do).

View attachment 5843
Yeah, that will take a lot of work for sure. If you could post the measurements, that would be much appreciated.
 
I'll see if I can make a technical drawing of a "universal" baseplate that can work with slightly larger gap sizes without having to bevel the edges.
Next to a pdf-file, I could then also create the drawing as a DWG/DXF-file so that it could also be used for laser- or water jet cutting...
 
I'll see if I can make a technical drawing of a "universal" baseplate that can work with slightly larger gap sizes without having to bevel the edges.
Next to a pdf-file, I could then also create the drawing as a DWG/DXF-file so that it could also be used for laser- or water jet cutting...
Isn’t filing down the bevels the easiest thing? Looks harder to me to get it the right overall size.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tom
Unfortunately I'm not completely happy with the Motoism turn signals.
The flashing light is way too dark; it seems they are not compatible with the electronic of the 801.

As I still like the design of the stock turn signals together with the Evotech tail tidy, I will now give an additional heat shield made from stainless steel a try...


IMG_6894 2.jpeg

IMG_6897 2.jpeg

IMG_6900 2.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Sorry to hear you’re not happy with the new turn signals. I also like the originals a lot. How is the measurement with the stock signals? Not possible to shave down the tube a few cm to get a better offset to the muffler and still be legal?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tom
No chance; it's already maxed out.

It has to be 180mm between the "lighting parts" of the lenses; as the inner part of the lens is darkened it is OK, but shorter arms are not possible.


240803_Evotech_01b.jpg
 
Back
Top Bottom