701 Oberon Slave change

NORTY FLATZ

expert rider
Joined
Mar 31, 2021
Messages
219
Location
NORTH SAN DIEGO CO.
Hi all, I have a bit of a problem. I changed out the OEM slave to an Oberon unit, and am having trouble getting a firm lever after refilling the M/C. Usually, I have good luck using my miti-vac and pulling fluid thru the slave nipple. Try as I might, I could not get the fluid to pull thru the M/C, via the slave nipple. The fluid should go down in the M/C res. So, the next thing I tried is a syringe and pushing fluid up to the M/C from the slave nipple. No change in the fluid level in the M/C here either. It should rise. So, is there a secret I need to do to get a firm lever, as I have basically no lever, atm. Right now, the bike isn't ride able.
 
When I had a similar problem the master needed a rebuild.

You could try opening that up and giving it a clean.
 
When I had a similar problem the master needed a rebuild.

You could try opening that up and giving it a clean.
Thanks, I'm thinking the same. It's been replaced before, but I dunno if the mechanic used the proper fluid or not. Seems the M/C lid gasket is swelled, so the seals may be as well. Off to order a rebuild kit...
 
I'm finding that some Magura rubber seals swell when using DOT 4 or 5.1 fluid, as the cap recommends. So, I rammed fluid from the slave bleeder to the M/C. I now have a "lever" but it doesn't "feel" right. Feels like it's spongy. I tried putting it in gear and pulling the lever. It does disengage slightly, but not anywhere near what the clutch on my Tiger is. It completely disengages.
Here's a couple pics of my contraption.
IMG_8542.jpegIMG_8543.jpegIMG_8544.jpegIMG_8545.jpeg
 
Well, now I'm hearing that I need a "rebuild kit" for my M/C. So, I ordered one. It also appears that the fluid I used is NOT compatible with the seals. Some say, I need the "Magura Blood" fluid, so I have that on order too. Now, to wait for the parts/fluid to arrive, then try again with another syringe/vinyl tube....

This will be the 3rd M/C this bike has had in 10K miles....
 
Magura blood is mineral oil as far as I know, if your system is suitable for dot 4, you should not need magura blood.
What year is your 701? Is that 3rd master cylinder a stock master cylinder? If it is, it should use dot 4/5.1 not mineral oil.
 
I rebuilt my clutch master once, and decided then, that if it needed another rebuild I would just upgrade to an aftermarket clutch master. The stock magura stuff is crap if you ask me.
 
Magura blood is mineral oil as far as I know, if your system is suitable for dot 4, you should not need magura blood.
What year is your 701? Is that 3rd master cylinder a stock master cylinder? If it is, it should use dot 4/5.1 not mineral oil.
It's a 2018.

With the "crap" M/C from Magura.

Never had problems like this, with any hyd clutch or brake system in 50 years. (Ok, so most of those may have been cable, but still...)

It's only had 2 M/C's so far, both OEM stock units. Should be receiving the "rebuild kit" tomorrow...
 
I was going to start the process today, but other things got in the way. I opened up the M/C cap and the gasket is HUGE. It's about a quarter inch too long now, so it has swelled bug time. I put the lid back on as I didn't have time to mess with it today. Maybe during the week.
Oh, here's what was occupying my day today...
IMG_8887.jpeg
 
Well, I left it alone, and then tried it. I haven't pulled the piston and seals out of the M/C as yet, but it seems to WORK. So, for now, I guess I'll leave it alone and ride it. It drags very slightly (not enough to creep forward with the brakes released.)
Well, I'm bamboozled at this point. But, at least I have another bike to ride...
 
Update: I have had a rebuild kit since October '24. My lever was very slow to return, so Time to install it. As you all have read, I was bleeding from the slave, up to the M/C, but the syringe wouldn't budge. So, I emptied the M/C reservoir and pulled the piston/seal combo out. There was a "gelatinous" substance on the inside end on the piston rod. I looked down the bore, and there was lumpy crud in there. About 15 Q-Tips later, it was sparkling clean. Swabbed out the M/C reservoir too. Fairly clean there. Decided to push fresh fluid up from the slave to the M/C with the piston out. I expected it to come "rushing" thru the M/C bore, but it was just a very slow trickle. Decided to keep pushing (about 45 cc's total) thru that line, it got better and better as the crud was being pushed out the M/C bore. Finally, it was clear, new fluid. Installed the new piston/seal combo, along with the rubber boot and linkage & lever. Filled the M/C rez and slowly began to purge the air out of the bore and top of the line. With every lever pull, I got bubbles thru the bottom of the rez. Finally, after about 30-40 pulls, I had a decent clutch lever. Oddly, if I only pulled the lever (ball end) about 7mm, it would purge air out. If I pulled to the grip, it wouldn't purge any air. Big bubbles became tiny bubbles (cue: Don Ho, here.)
Anyway, I hope I don't have to bleed the clutch in 2 different systems anymore, like before. (Pushing fluid from the slave & pumping from the M/C rez down.) It seems as tho I had a blockage in my line that wouldn't move the M/C fluid as the clutch wore, but now, hopefully it'll do as designed.
IMG_0685.jpeg
This is what I had before I started disassembly. That white washer thing is an "interference" keeper instead of a circlip. It has 3 tabs every 60 degrees that push against the bore wall. Works very well, too. Replaced with a new one supplied in kit.
 
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