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These turn signals? Where did you get yours from?

The more look at the exploded view of the parts the more I think those are glued. I'm tempted to spend the money on one of the covers just to see how it looks off of the airbox.

@ChainsawDuke Did you have a chance to check this? Apologies for the insistence.

I thought so too, but this panels can be bought separately. #8 and #9. Could they be glued to the air box?

@ChainsawDuke do You know how the panels marked in this picture are attached to the air box?

The nut works as far as I know. The spacers and the axle itself I don't know.

A hollow nut like this one?

Did you lower the clamps to make space for the damper, or were you already running that setting?

I'm not completely sure since I didn't go through with it, but I think it's a straight swap using the Svart spacers

There will never be a passenger? Then my point is mute. As I said before your set up looks cool. Amazing job my friend.

That look cool, and very sturdy, but also very uncomfortable for the passenger. I would flip them and have the bend facing down. IMHO I think it would be more confortable, and will give you a lower tying for bigger cargo.

Thanks for the reply, I guess I should have asked this before actually changing it. I could have saved half of the 10w for the next service. Rebound wasn't as bad as compression with stock oil, it wasn't great, but it was not bad. I'll give 7.5 W a go to see if it's a good middle ground.

I recently changed the fork oil to 10w, and it made a noticeable difference in how the front feels under compression, hard braking feels more controlled, and the overall feeling is better, however, rebound feels overdamped, even at 0 clicks. I wonder if using different weight oil on each leg...

Did you install Power Commander (or any other Piggyback ECU) with the airbox delete and the fuel dongle?

I think they look great, that is why I asked. Great job.

That is a perfect install. Did you cut these yourself or bought them precut?

Try a new/fully charged battery. Happened to me once and jump starting it solved it, changed the battery and it has never happened again.

OP was looking for a GP alternative that could work with the stock rear set. Maybe for him it would be worthwhile to try what I suggested. I eye balled it and it looks like it might, it really depends on how low or high he likes the lever to be.

I have not serviced them yet so I don't know, but, if they happen to be progressive, then those numbers would indicate the range of spring stiffness?

Let me rephrase this question. I know what they should mean. The vitpilen spring has a 6 Nm rate with 345 mm free length, the question is why does the 27,5 means? Also, why does the Svart spring has 3 different rates listed together?