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@Lýkos I've read about it in a German KTM-forum. Here the link to the complete thread; several people are reporting about the problem with the discs and also the rims; from 2020 up to now. https://www.ktmforum.eu/forum/thread/117117-ktm-790-duke-bremsen-vorne-ruckeln-stark/?pageNo=1

@Lýkos From what I've read in a KTM forum in some cases the problem weren't the disks, but the contact surfaces at the front wheel, that weren't straight.

The inner of the leg should be OK, but the heel of the riding boot might be a problem when I'm with the toes on the footpegs; that's why I've added the heat shield to the link pipe (for testing it); stock it comes without a heat shield.

Here also a short sound-clip of the Duke 890 NXT exhaust / with the stock Remus db-killer.

The added short removable db-killer made it sound more raspier; to me it works perfect, even at higher speed for a longer period of time.

Maybe it's just me, but honestly, I don't really understand why you are so obsessed with the 30 degrees. At least here in Germany, the insurance will have to cover the damages in the case of an accident with a 30 degrees registration plate and also a 40/45 degrees registration plate. Just if you...

From what I've read, the "safety-components" such as ABS, etc. also start to struggle when the battery is faulty.

LOL... OK, how about the TopBlock? also too ugly? 😉

It's even shorter. If you want to stick with the 30 degrees, the Mizu or Ibex might be a better option to you.

That's definitely not normal; last winter the bike was stored from November to April without any problems; every now and then I checked the battery; at all maybe three or four times in the nearly six months; and it was always full or nearly full; I would assume your battery is faulty; it should...

Doesn't help with the warranty, but maybe this could be an (available) alternative option.

The two holes to attach the aluminum mount might indeed be a weak link; if it would be me, I would add two slightly recessed big washers (made from steel) underneath the countersunk screws. Edit: the head of a standard M6 countersunk screw is 12mm; the inner diameter of a M10 washer is 10,5mm...

Yes, but the 1290 plate broke because of a design-flaw / fabrication failure; with the quite thick printed base plate I would assume that it should work quite similar to the 3mm aluminum base plate,

Not one single point here... Maybe sometimes it's helpful to know where you should behave; and where it's "OK" to be a hooligan... ;)

130km/h?!? OK, you must definitely have some Viking genes... 😁 Not for an extended long period of time, but 200km/h is quite "normal" here; even with the 801 without any wind protection; welcome to Germany...😉

I just noticed that your French license plates are only 130mm high; that might help a bit; our German license plates are 200mm. Here a sketch I did some time ago to check the angle of the plate.

Yes, according to the Eurpean requirements the licence plate needs to be 30° or less, but as long as it's not too extreme and as long as the plate is still good visible, it's mostly "accepted" here in Germany; I never had any problems with a more step license plate. As the plate is made from...

When I adapted the Duke 390 tail tidy, the 40° wasn't enough; the reflector underneath the license plate touched the tire; with 45° instead it worked fine; but the German license plates are differnt to the French license plates; I did the the angle correction simply by bending the license plate...

If you always ride solo, in my opinion definitely without the rear pegs; looks much better.

Same here; the K&N works fine; and no noticeable difference to the stock filter.